Azuma

More than 10 years since Azuma-san established this slender room in the deco surrounds of Chifley Tower, a certain maturity has set in. The caramel and red-and-black-lacquer tones, assured service, the kitchen's confident mastery of flavours both familiar and fanciful and a humming dining room weave their own magic, enhanced by fine Japanese ceramic serving plates and delicate presentation. Yes, there are an awful lot of menus to peruse, from seasonal to special, wagyu to seafood to omakase (chef's choice) and even a pre-theatre option. Simply strive for a balance of dishes and surrender. An appetiser of black sesame tofu in yuzu miso is elegant and complex, while smoky simmered eggplant on nutty miso is rich and smooth. House-made soba is suitably slurpable, ponzu-tingling beef tataki crunches with crisped noodles and the daily sushi selection is well-seasoned and sea-sweet. Dessert indulges Franco-Nippon fancies such as a fine brulee with a green tea and red-bean roll.