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Bicicletta, Canberra

Natasha Rudra

Braised duck with plum sauce and pepperonata at Bicicletta.
Braised duck with plum sauce and pepperonata at Bicicletta.Elesa Kurtz

13/20

Italian$$

Bicicletta can sometimes be a trifle overlooked in the New Acton neighbourhood, that home of A.Baker, Black Market, and Parlour Wine Room. But that's not entirely its fault - this little place tucked into a corner of a courtyard beside A Baker has to wear a variety of hats. It's got to function as a public eatery, but also as the inhouse restaurant for the Peppers Gallery Hotel (formerly the Diamant) and with all that entails.

So yes, there's a quadrant of the restaurant that's perfect for a breakfast buffet, with a big table and juice jugs next to it. The sliding doors to the hotel are open, and there are probably guests calling down orders for in-room pizzas as we take our seats in a secluded corner just near the door. The decor hasn't changed terribly much since it opened - vaguely industrial distressed walls and little lamps.

The wine list includes a section of great Aussie wine recommendations from wine writer Nick Stock, a pleasant touch. We get started with a couple of local glasses, including the lovely pinot noir from Lerida Estate. This might not need much explanation for a Canberra wine lover but the waitress, creditably, offers friendly and knowledgeable advice.

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Bicicletta does double duty as a hotel restaurant.
Bicicletta does double duty as a hotel restaurant.Elesa Kurtz

Tonight there's a little extra menu on a slip of paper with our accoutrements - a selection of truffle dishes from the Canberra truffle festival which runs all through winter. You can also get a hit of truffle on your pasta dishes for a surcharge.

Why not, let's give it a whirl - so we pick a starter dish of fig and truffle ($22). These are a collection of pan-fried, half-moon figs with a little sauce that's flavoured with gorgonzola and topped with salty bits of crisp prosciutto. The figs are light and fresh but they're not as bursting ripe as they could be, probably because it's at the extreme end of the season. Still, there's a subtle hint of truffle and a kick from the cheese and it's a satisfying little entree.

The risotto of the week ($31) is touted as a truffle and king prawn affair. It's fairly loosely formed and to my mind the rice doesn't have that buttery creaminess that you want in a really good risotto. And the prawns are not so much kingly as more - I don't know - prince like. Curls of porcini mushroom and leek add a little interest.

Silky smooth: Limoncello cheesecake.
Silky smooth: Limoncello cheesecake.Elesa Kurtz
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Just as hearty and much more comforting is a pair of steaming hot, tender duck legs ($35), on a bed of braised chunks of potato, capsicum and other vegetables. A sweet plum sauce gives it a bit of contrast. The duck's almost stewed, beautifully pull-apart and so good to eat on a cold night like tonight. It's also a very big dish - almost enough to share with your dinner partner. This is the kind of family style Italian that you'd be happy to eat any day of the week.

Desserts here are pretty trad - affogato, panna cotta, scoops of gelato in hazelnut and chocolate and pistachio - but go fully old school and get the tiramisu, which is served in a retro-style shallow glass goblet. This is not too creamy or dry, with a good coffee and chocolate flavour and smothered in chocolate shreds.

Meanwhile a tall slice of limoncello cheesecake is smooth and silky with a marmalady citrus glaze over the top though I could do without the frilly blob of stiff cream on the side.

Bicicletta's done just enough tonight to keep us warmed and happy and sometimes that's all you need.

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