Buon Ricordo

When was the last time you entered a restaurant dining room to be greeted by a phalanx of waiters in trim white jackets standing to attention? The jackets may belong in a 1950s Napoli hotel dining room, but how welcome is the lavish attention as said waiters fuss and coo and cosset, from the first 'buona sera' to the final 'buona notte'? Radical change is anathema to chef-owner Armando Percuoco, who opened the doors to this Italian stalwart 25 years ago, but he offers plenty of inducement to step back in time. Plump, ripe, late-summer figs wrapped in prosciutto and served with gorgonzola sauce are just as good as they were a decade ago, maybe better. Light, feathery gnocchi; classic crumbed veal, rolled and oozing with spinach and parmesan; and a rich nougat semifreddo all capture the essence of la vera cucina Italiana. In case you're wondering, Buon Ricordo means 'good memories', which is exactly what you will take away with you.