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Darley Street Bistro

Modern Australian$$

A stone's throw from St Peters train station is this mid-makeover pub, still a little on the sticky-carpet side downstairs but boasting an impressive bistro - with comprehensive multi-blackboard menu - and, upstairs, a bright dining space with large-group-friendly timber tables and seats inside and out. The food is far better than you'd expect at a place where you order and pay at the kitchen counter in exchange for a buzzer that trills when your food's up. Try silky handmade pumpkin and goat's cheese-filled ravioli topped with roasted capsicum and lemon-parsley gremolata, a melting pork belly or Cajun-spiced barra. A simpler bar food selection includes a decent Portuguese chicken burger with BLAT and skinny chips.

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