YER gets what yer pays for but there are still some drops under $10 that offer varietal charm. From the Riverland, this young wine has melony varietal character, a thread of oak, a smooth, creamy textured palate and good balance. It's fresh, simple and really no more than a quaffer — but it's a good one. (13.5 per cent alcohol; screw cap.) Ageing? No. Food ideas Pasta with a creamy sauce; chicken schnitzel.