The New South Wales Hilltops region looks a great place to grow riesling. This bargain-priced example from Moppity Vineyards is pale and bright with a lifted, estery aroma that hints at lime and other fresh-cut citrus fruits. Some steely mineral threads give it a subtle savoury accent, and the palate is quite dry and rather austere in style, with sustained, pure varietal flavour, a savoury herbal touch and a zesty, lip-smacking ending. (Screw cap; 11 per cent alcohol.)
Ageing? Drink over six years.
Food ideas Sushi; fritto misto of seafood.