Planted in 1964 as a source of grapes for Seppelt sparkling wines, Drumborg vineyard, near Portland in Victoria's south-west, has a very challenging, cold, windy, unwelcoming climate. It's difficult vineyard country, but Seppelt has persevered and their Drumborg dry rieslings are now among Australia's best. The recipe for complex bottle age is there in this 2012's pristine regional/varietal aroma. Lime, pear, floral scents and steel lead into a beautifully modulated palate of ripe fruit, lightly leesy textural interest, integrated fine acidity and an ultra-lingering fragrant aftertaste. (Screw cap; 11.5 per cent alcohol.)
Ageing? Yes, two to 15 years.
Food ideas Grilled fish; roasted snapper with celeriac salad.