Midway through the 2011–12 growing season, Ken Helm’s friend, neighbour and grape supplier, Al Lustenberger, died in an accident on his property. Lustenberger’s family, however, assumed management of the vineyard, sole source of Helm Premium riesling, and supplied fruit to Helm for the 2012 vintage. In 2013 the family produced the goods, although Helm now has a lease over the vineyard, his most treasured grape source. I tasted the wine shortly after bottling – perhaps the worst time for a delicate, aromatic riesling. But it looks good already – pale but brilliant, highly aromatic and intensely dry and acidic on the palate. Behind the acid, though, lies the tightly wound-up lemony varietal flavour, ready to unfurl in the years ahead – just as previous vintages have done consistently.