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What to drink ... Italian wines

Italy has an array of diverse wine styles, from savoury whites to expressive reds.

Jane Faulkner

Take a few moments to select a fine Italian wine.
Take a few moments to select a fine Italian wine.Supplied

UP TO $25

Matteo Correggia Roero Arneis 2012 $25

I do get rather excited when an Italian wine is bottled under screw cap - all too rare but it means it will be super-fresh, as is this white from the Roero in Piedmont. It kicks off with an aroma of honeysuckle and white blossom, hints of ginger, white pepper, hay and zesty citrus. It's not a complicated wine but is thoroughly enjoyable, with its texture, talc-like acidity and a lingering fragrance reminiscent of lavender bath salts. From Prince Wine Store.

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UP TO $30

Salvatore Molettieri Fiano di Avellino Apianum 2010 $27

Campania is one of Italy's most exciting wine regions because of its diversity of varieties and styles. And one of its most compelling indigenous whites is fiano; the region of Avellino produces some of the finest. Salvatore Molettieri makes a fiano with a gorgeous slippery texture, almost silky, with a distinct, creamed-honey character and phenolic grip on the finish. Dried herbs and stone fruit feature and, as with most of Italy's white wines, this is savoury with a dry, fresh finish. A neat match to seafood or antipasti. From Boccaccio Cellars.

OVER $40

Foradori Teroldego 2010 $49

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Elisabetta Foradori is one of my favourite producers for many reasons, including her attention to detail in the vineyards and winemaking using biodynamic principles, her work ethic and her love of teroldego, an ancient red from the Trentino region. I love the acid-tannin balance with this variety and the 2010 has a core of ripe red fruit mixed with spice, florals and smoky nuances. It's medium-bodied, with those very precise fine tannins adding to the shape and sensation of the wine before a fresh, long finish. From Europa Cellars.

SPLURGE

Azelia Barolo Bricco Fiasco 2008 $129

Barolo is one of Italy's greatest wines, although anyone trying it for the first time might wonder why, because it's incredibly tannic and fairly acidic. Yet it is a beguiling wine - made entirely from nebbiolo. Bricco Fiasco is one of the finest vineyards in the Castiglione Falletto area, and the section Azelia owns features vines about 65 years old. This is a complex wine, with a heady aroma of tar and roses; it's earthy with a hint of menthol and sweet fruit. This '08 will easily age another 15 years, but is drinking well now. Have a bowl of ox-tail ragu ready. From Armadale Cellars.

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