Christmas. Summer holidays. Celebratory times, days of indulgence, expanding waistlines. Good wine is a great part of it all, with a place at December and January tables for wines across a broad vinous landscape. They may be light-bodied or full, white, pink or red, pricey or budget-friendly, familiar, obscure, or wacky. Here is an assorted dozen selected with all of that in mind.
Prosecco slakes thirsts across the country and Risky Business is one of the best Australian takes on this yo-ho-ho type of Italian-accented fizz. It opens frothy with a gentle tingling spritz. Aromas of almond icing and pears have uncomplicated charm and it tastes clean, soft and vibrant (10.5 per cent alcohol, crown seal).
Food idea? Summer vegetable crudites with aioli.
Stockists include Amato's Liquor, Leichhardt (NSW), Randall's, Geelong (Vic).
A champagne that's nearly always discounted, Piper's red label is as good as some non-vintage sparklers at twice the price. Look at the dollars involved and remember this is a Grande Marque producer, totally revitalised 20 years ago, administered with great expertise now. It really delivers on fruit intensity, yeasty/toasty complexity, balance and maturity. Shop around for the best deal (12 per cent alcohol; cork).
Food idea? Smoked salmon blinis.
Stockists include Dan Murphy's stores, Vintage Cellars stores.
While inexpensive sweet-and-sour Kiwi sauvignon blancs have won the Australian heartland, winemakers both sides of the ditch refine the style. Cannibal Creek from Gippsland sums up one new direction. Supple and juicy with lemon curd and lightly herbaceous aromas, it has a subliminal thread of oak, not for flavouring but as a catalyst for harmony and texture. It's savoury with great balance, finishing very dry and tasty (12.5 per cent alcohol; screwcap).
Food idea? Steamed asparagus with lemon butter sauce.
Stockists include City Wine Shop, Spring Street, Melbourne (Vic), Bellevue Hill Bottle Shop, Bellevue Hill (NSW).
Wine snobs and label drinkers hate wines like Jacob's Creek. Ignore these guys completely. This modern dry rosé from South Australia is a cracker. Pale coppery pink, it's a bright, shiny summertime wine, smelling of raspberries and floral talc, tasting soft and quenching, light and dry (12.5 per cent alcohol; screwcap).
Food idea? Christmas ham.
Stockists include BWS stores, Dan Murphy's stores.
The chatter about "alternative" grape varieties in Australia can be a bit yawnworthy, but vermentino, originating in Italy, is one that shows real promise Down Under. Impavido offers uncomplicated lemon and herb fragrance, savoury/fresh food-friendly personality, and tight structure without the bitterness that characterises some alternative whites. The flamboyant label reminds us that wine is fun, too (12.5 per cent alcohol; screwcap).
Food idea? Chilled shellfish.
Stockists include Red Bottle Central & Alexandria (NSW), Boccaccio Cellars, Balwyn (Vic)
Modern, subtle Margaret River chardonnay selling for a lot less than some regional neighbours. The stylish, complex nose suggests peaches, green melon, citrus, butterscotch and subdued oak. A hint of struck match adds savoury dimension; a silky, seamless mouthful follows. It's beautifully balanced, lingering and moreish (13.5 per cent alcohol; screwcap).
Food idea? Whole baked snapper.
Stockists include MW Wines, Collingwood (Vic), Kemenys, Bondi (NSW).
Aged Australian riesling is world-class white wine. This South Australian example treads a fascinating middle path between zesty youth and mature complexity. Fresh citrus, mineral and floral notes dominate, but they are interwoven with light hints of toast, honey and lime marmalade reflecting seven years' enrichment in the bottle, signing off lingering and savoury. Delicious (11.5 per cent alcohol; screwcap).
Food idea? Barbecued lobster.
Stockists include United Cellars, au.unitedcellars.com
From thoughtful Yarra Valley winemaker Steve Flamsteed, Primavera pinot has gorgeously elaborate aromas of violets, dark cherry nougat, game, beetroot, and a hint of cedar. Rich and full of flavour, yet not heavy, it has deliciously plush texture, juicy balance, and an endless finish, underpinned by fine, ripe tannins (13.8 per cent alcohol; screwcap).
Food idea? Roast duck with cherries.
Stockists include Balmain Wine Collective, Balmain (NSW), Red White & Amber, Hawthorn (Vic).
Spanish red wines are on the march, due partly to the quality and value of products like this. From arid, high altitude Castilla-La Mancha, this vividly labelled drop smells of berries, spices, sarsaparilla and earth. It's medium-bodied, smooth and satisfying with moreish easy-drinking balance (14 per cent alcohol; screwcap).
Food idea? Barbecued meats in the great outdoors.
Stockists include Ritchies stores (Vic), Vintage Cellars stores (NSW).
Christmas is a good time to crack iconic red wines – just as long as there aren't too many thirsty freeloaders. No Australian label says iconic red like Penfolds, but some require long ageing and others big bank balances. Bin 138 is more moderately priced and drinks beautifully now. An essence of the Barossa, it's a rather old-fashioned shiraz/grenache/mataro blend offering floral, glace cherry, spice and meaty characters, flowing through a velvety palate of fine balance, ripeness and length of flavour (14.5 per cent alcohol; screwcap).
Food idea? Rib roast of beef with red wine demi-glace.
Stockists include David's Cellars, Annandale (NSW), Decanters by the Bay, Port Melbourne (Vic).
Once upon a time, cabernet sauvignon was Australia's go-to red wine. Times have changed, but Oz cabernet has never been more majestic. Howard Park's Abercrombie from WA has few peers for classical personality. Violet, blackcurrant liqueur, briar and dark chocolate characters, backed up by cedary oak, introduce a deep, dense wine. Firm, tightly packed, it's ready for 20 years' ageing, yet supple and lovely enough right now. A great cellaring gift; a great drink at a Christmas feast (14 per cent alcohol; screwcap).
Food idea? Roast leg of lamb with all the traditional trimmings.
Stockists include Armadale Cellars, Armadale (Vic), Vintage Blue, Kent Street, Sydney (NSW).
Great Australian fortifieds share easy affinity with Christmas tradition, and this superb blend deserves a place on your festive table. A mix of vintages of fortified frontignac going back to 1981, sourced from Rutherglen, the Barossa and McLaren Vale, it has an olive-edged deep amber colour indicating substantial age. The nose is superb, reminiscent of raisins, mocha, burnt toffee and roasted nuts. It's sweet, luscious and profound with a tangy thread of acidity to keep it motoring along beautifully fresh (19.5 per cent alcohol; screwcap).
Food idea? Christmas pud or panettone.
Stockists include primoestate.com.au or phone 08 8323 6800.