Celeriac and egg: an unlovely-looking root vegetable meets a household basic and, in Clinton McIver's hands, turns into something extraordinary. My umami experience of the year, thanks to a little seawater coupled with the owner-chef's spot-on technique and extraordinary palate. Simultaneously earthy and elegant, unexpected and sublime. Cathy Gowdie
1121 High Street, Armadale, 03 9822 0144, amarumelbourne.com.au
Like the creature for which Anchovy is named, my restaurant crush-of-the-year is small but perfectly formed. Service is smart, the drinks list savvy, and vivid Vietnamese flavours abound on a neat menu of about 15 mod Oz-Asian dishes. Lamb ribs cooked in master stock, glazed then grilled are a favourite. Janne Apelgren
338 Bridge Road, Richmond, 03 9428 3526, anchovy.net.au
I'd been sceptical that the meat fruit dish would live up to the hype – but it actually did! Bravo Heston. Andrew Hagger
Level 3, Crown Towers, 8 Whiteman Street, Southbank, 03 9292 5777, dinnerbyheston.com.au
The blood orange dessert is the prettiest constellation of citrus and chocolate. And the service – warm, smart. All heart, no arch. Jane Ormond
Level 1, 80 Bourke Street, Melbourne, 03 9662 1811, grossiflorentino.com
The Google pin dropped wrong for Igni, which roughly tripled the excellence of the night – first in finding it wasn't in that creepy garage and then that it was as good as Loam and maybe better. Gemima Cody
2 Ryan Place, Geelong, 03 5222 2266, restaurantigni.com
Marion stole my heart: great service, stellar wine list and simple McConnell magic. Nathan Chisholm
53 Gertrude Street, Fitzroy, 03 9419 6262, marionwine.com.au
Special service moment: watching my daughter create a table-wide sculpture out of the corks and toothpicks given to her by staff (and then devour her bodyweight in bolognese). Patrick Witton
69 Liebig Street, Warrnambool, 03 5562 2051
I'm still dreaming of the cilbir at Tulum, an intoxicating dish of crisp chicken skin, poached egg, brown butter and smoked yoghurt mopped up with fluffy Turkish bread. Michael Harry
217 Carlisle Street, Balaclava 03 9525 9127, tulumrestaurant.com.au
What has Emilia-Romagna ever done for us – besides parmesan, balsamic vinegar and prosciutto? Oh, and Trattoria Emilia's gnocco fritto – pillows of fried dough to eat with salumi? Roslyn Grundy
360 Little Collins Street (enter via Gills Alley), Melbourne, 03 9670 7214, emiliamelbourne.com.au
The jerusalem artichoke doughnut tree is emblematic of the authentic connection to the restaurant's Burnham Beeches gardens and the sense of fun and creativity evident in the restaurant. Plus, it's a doughnut tree! Dani Valent
Level 55, Rialto Tower, 525 Collins Street, Melbourne, 03 9691 3888, vuedemonde.com.au
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