At Atta in Albert Park, waterbath meets tandoor

What's the lowdown

Indian gets a modernist makeover at Atta, where waterbath meets tandoor. Housed in a heritage-listed Greek taverna, there's ballpoint artwork by Laith McGregor on the whitewashed walls and culinary artwork on the gigantic white plates. Here, tandoori aloo is a tower of spice-infused potatoes, and your orthodox cottage cheese ras-malai is served with freeze-dried raspberry tuiles.

Who's behind it?

Harry Dhanjal, who began recklessly experimenting on Indian at Richmond's Fuzion back in 2007. The restaurateur and self-taught chef wanted to free the cuisine from the limits of tradition by applying contemporary technique to venerable recipes.

Why should you care?

In short: traditional flavours, a light touch and sexy looks. For Dhanjal, the aesthetic is important. "We give dishes a really modern touch, but keep the authenticity of flavours."

If you only eat one thing

Dhanjal's proudest creation is the sikandari raan, a leg of lamb cooked sous-vide with red wine and coriander-infused oil, served with Dutch carrots, chat potatoes and delivered to your table under a bell jar filled with applewood smoke. "I'm not a big fan of the word 'drama'," he says, "but as soon as you open the dome, it gets you."

Open Tue-Sun 5pm-10pm.

159–161 Victoria Avenue, Albert Park, 03 9696 3388, attarestaurant.com.au