Praise the gods of non-committal eating. Cutler & Co, the restaurant at the pinnacle of chef-restaurateur Andrew McConnell's empire, has had a makeover and operational rethink, bringing back the much-missed bar dining option.
The redesign by Iva Foschia, who also did Marion next door and has just reimagined Attica, has framed the room in strong deco lines, putting focus on the open kitchen. A false wall in the dining room will soon come down to reveal views over Fitzroy through more impressive windows.
For now, commandeer the front tables for a sort of best-of-the-McConnell empire bar menu: doughnut balls with creme fraiche and salmon roe; tomato salads and smoked curd, and an abalone tonkatsu sandwich with bulldog sauce. Better yet, there is now a seafood focus: order a fruits de mer platter and a bottle of bubbles or get singular red claw yabby or honey bug. The bar is your oyster.
Out back in the dining room you can still go entree, main, dessert or do a deg, but chef Chris Watson, who has come from Luxembourg to run the show, is also pumping out a few more salt-baked birds, standing rib-eyes and other share-friendly situations.
Open Tue-Sat 6pm-midnight; Sun noon-midnight.
55–57 Gertrude Street, Fitzroy, cutlerandco.com.au