Dandelion's Geoff Lindsay opens Lamaro's Dining Room

At least one corner pub has been spared the indignity of becoming an apartment block: Lamaro's in South Melbourne.

It may have had a short run as Lamaro's Bodega, a project by Colonial Brewing and the guys behind Greenvale Farm Pork, but the longstanding food pub that sang under chef Michael Lambie has now attracted Dandelion's Geoff Lindsay to give it a global spin, with AFL's Paul Dimattina as partner.

Thankfully, previous publicans haven't removed the marble-topped horseshoe bar, or replaced the stained-glass windows with bifolds (although a small spruce up by Techne was delivered in 2015). Besides a lick of paint and a few banquettes, the new partners won't change a thing.

A new menu has kicked off in the bar for now, reflecting Lindsay's globalist inclinations with black pepper blue swimmer crab, reubens, and a pork-belly banh mi, served with pickled papaya on rice-flour baguettes that are baked in-house. Counter meals are relatively affordable, ranging from $10 for small plates up to $20 for the more substantial.

Once the dining room opens in mid-August, it'll play a greatest hits compilation from Lindsay's 32-year career, delivering the coconut-braised red duck curry from his Pearl years, served with a son-in-law egg and a big wedge of wombok; the Catalan salad of salmon and salt cod picked up from Stephanie Alexander; and the whole deep-fried snapper with four-taste sauce served at Stella.

Sommelier Nick Brown is backing the game with a crafty list, including Barrow Boys Stormy Lager, Hop Nation IPA and Lord Nelson pale ale joining around 12 beers on tap. Brown's time at Levantine Hill no doubt influenced his global wine list.

Lindsay is the executive chef for both the pub and Dandelion in Elwood, with Jay Sinclair working Lamaro's pans.

Open Mon 4pm-11pm; Tue-Sat noon-11pm; Sun noon-6pm.

273-279 Cecil Street, South Melbourne, 03 9690 3737, lamaroshotel.com.au