Dolly Gray, wife of Squizzy Taylor, now muse for a Fitzroy restaurant

Brunswick Street's Pireaus Blues had a good run – 22 years, to be exact. Now the double-fronted space has been replaced by Dolly Gray, the first resto-bar from a group of hospitality mates who met working at Captain Baxter in St Kilda – Brad Dowling, David van Iersel, Georgina Wright (founder of Artisan Handcrafted spirits company) and chef Rhys Blackley (ex-Matteo's and Circa, The Prince).

Blackley is firing up a custom barbecue to inject smoke into dishes such as octopus with black garlic, potato and chorizo, and half Milawa chooks with lemon myrtle and chestnuts. A handful of vegetable dishes are designed around what's available from farms like Angelica Organic and Glenora Heritage Produce, while smaller plates – perhaps mussels with 'nduja or whipped cod roe with finger lime – are a suitable snack match for cocktails with ingredients like saltbush and smoked ginger.

Seating for 76 is split between raised tables, a glowing bar and semi-enclosed nook of brown leather banquettes. The dimly lit venue has a cavernous feel with its original brickwork and black walls, but a mural of Dolly Gray (first wife of 1920s Melbourne gangster Squizzy Taylor) is coming soon by tattoo artist Ruben van Houwelingen.

Stay tuned for an open-air bar upstairs at the end of the year.

Open Tue-Thu 4pm-1am; Fri-Sun noon-1am.

310-312 Brunswick Street, Fitzroy, 9042 1316, dollygray.com.au