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Hawthorn's Ate One Ate menu thinks global

Nola James

Ate One Ate occupies the space that one housed four shops.
Ate One Ate occupies the space that one housed four shops.Ewen Bell

As the only child of a long-time restaurant family (father George has Lygon Street eatery Villa Romana) 25-year-old Stephen Papagelou has big shoes to fill. No surprises that he's gone large for his first solo venture in Hawthorn.

The 180-seat all-day eatery occupies a space that once housed four shops, with an open plan dining room, a terrace-like breakfast area and a main dining room with black marble tables. Bonus points for resisting the temptation to cram another 20 seats in – there's definitely room to move.

Since opening in November they've lost original head chef Quim Hernandez Maluquer, whose menu of mostly Italian-leaning pizza and pasta dishes, including a classic egg yolk and guanciale spaghetti carbonara, is still in play. It'll get a shake up as new head chef Marc Brown settles into his role.

Ate One Ate occupies the space that one housed four shops.
Ate One Ate occupies the space that one housed four shops.Ewen Bell
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"We didn't want to be an Italian or Spanish restaurant … we wanted the freedom to create anything," Papagelou says of left-of-field dishes such as miso cobia on banana leaf and chargrilled calamari with Sriracha-accented taramasalata coming from the kitchen..

Open daily 8am-11pm.

818 Glenferrie Road, Hawthorn, 9818 3600, ateoneate.com.au

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