Just Open: Crux & Co, South Melbourne

Just when we thought we'd moved on from hybrid foods (looking at you cronut, cruffin, duffin ... wonut?) here's a new one: a crogel – croissant pastry baked in a bagel shape with bagel-y flavours like blueberry or poppy seed.

These crogels and other lacquered treats, courtesy of head pastry chef Louise MK Lee (recruited from Brunetti), call Crux & Co home – an ambitious new project from proprietor Kevin Li and chef Oggie Choi, both of Hawthorn's Lights in the Attic, that's located bang opposite the Kettle Black in the base of the Emerald apartment building.

Designed by Architects EAT (8-Bit, Tetsujin Emporium) it's certainly a stunner; plenty of natural light from open-fronted windows, brushed wood panelling, marble table tops and a soft grey-blue colour scheme.

At first glance the menu might seem to be having some GPS issues, but it's just the influence of a kitchen brigade hailing from Italy, Colombia and Korea; think house-made squid ink toast with tiger prawns and a lobster bisque hollandaise or a pork belly burger with fried cheese.

The coffee game looks strong. Head barista Yutaro Mitsuyoshi (Two Birds One Stone, Addict) oversees a custom four group Synesso Hydra using Five Senses' Hi Fidelity blend as house and guest singles from Maker Fine Coffee and Proud Mary.

Don't worry too much about getting a table; the place was designed to handle a high volume with 100-plus seats and a double kitchen for the anticipated double foot traffic on weekends.

Open Mon-Fri 7am-4pm; Sat-Sun 8am-4pm.

35 Albert Road, South Melbourne, 03 9820 1081, thecruxandco.com.au