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Just Open: Duke's Bistro, Randwick

Scott Bolles
Scott Bolles

Rillettes with pickled cauliflower and cherry mustard.
Rillettes with pickled cauliflower and cherry mustard.Supplied

The patterned carpet and tinned pineapple at The DOG (Duke of Gloucester) hotel have gone, with a new 170-seat bistro sliding into the Randwick local this Friday.

Duke's Bistro takes up residence in a section of the pub John Azar, from new owner The Good Beer Company, says previously felt like a tired old club. "We've given it an American theme with a French twist. There's a bit of a New Orleans, and an artist has created a great landscape mural in the stairwell," he says.

Executive chef Dwayne Baber's opening menu taps Sydney's usual suspects, with slow-cooked meats and share plates, as well as reinterpreting some classics.

The interior of Dukes Bistro.
The interior of Dukes Bistro.Supplied
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"There's escargot, and lobster medallions with asparagus risotto. Grilled prawns with cognac beurre blanc and a dessert of peanut butter and chocolate fondant," Azar says.

Sommelier Louella Mathews (ex-Rockpool) has created a wine list of local, French and American wines, and the new owner's craft brew experience is evident with 12 beers on tap.

If it's all sounding a little too gentrified for a pub once run by rugby league player Clive Churchill, Azar stresses The DOG retains its humbler roots: "The bistro has a big balcony, with views of the service station across the road."

Open Mon-Sat: 5pm-11pm; Sun 11am-11pm.

Upstairs, 2 Marks Road, Randwick, 02 9398 2682, doghotel.com.au/dukesbistro

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Scott BollesScott Bolles writes the weekly Short Black column in Good Food.

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