Just Open: Lilong by Taste of Shanghai, Hurstville

Taste of Shanghai has been unveiling bamboo steamers full of dumplings since 2005, but its new restaurant offers a different experience.

Lilong by Taste of Shanghai has opened in the rooftop of Westfield Hurstville, but it aims to direct you right into the cosy, tight-packed quarters of China.

"A lilong is a neighbourhood in Shanghai, which I grew up in," says owner Aaron Mi. "All the housing backs on to each other, and it's like one big neighbourhood. I always used to eat at my neighbour's house because my mum didn't cook much.

So what makes this new Hurstville venture different from the other Taste of Shanghai venues?

"It feels like you're sitting in someone's living room! We have introduced more sharing-style dishes, including two different types of dumplings. It's also our first rooftop restaurant."

He singles out steamed dumplings such as beef and baby celery ($12.80) and lamb and spring onion ($12.80) as Lilong specialties. Xiao long bao - one of the greatest hits at all the other Taste of Shanghai outlets in Ashfield, Eastwood and World Square - makes a cameo, too. The spotlight isn't all on dumplings, though. There's Peking Pork Chops ($19.80), Braised Barramundi in Chilli Sauce ($28.80) and Layered Red Date Cake ($7.80), too.

Mi's pick?

"The chilli king prawns in the hot wok are delicious, and it comes out with its own fire underneath," he says.

Giant Design (the creative force behind Taste of Shanghai's World Square outlet) has introduced hanging lanterns and bamboo-framed "laneways" for a cosy feel.

"It's all been designed to feel like a living room with little details like clocks on the wall and old fans, and they remind me of my home," says Aaron.

Open weekdays 11am-8:30pm; weekends 11am-9pm.

Level 4, Westfield Hurstville, Corner Cross Street and Park Road, Hurstville, 02 9570 9051, tasteofshanghai.com.au