Just Open: Saint Peter, Paddington

Sea urchin crumpets, dry-aged fish and marine offal will take centre stage when Saint Peter opens this week.

The restaurant is yet another small step for Oxford Street in Paddington, and a giant leap for Sydney seafood after a lean couple of years. Saint Peter co-owner Josh Niland spent time in one of those seafood restaurants to stumble, working with Steve Hodges at the now-closed Fish Face before the young chef moved to Cafe Nice and glowing reviews.

A co-production with wife Julie, a former pastry chef at Marque and est, Saint Peter (named for the patron chef of fishermen) slides into the former site of a sushi train restaurant.

"We're 11 days into dry-ageing some fish. It really heightens the flavour. We'll also be using fish offal, but what we also want to be is a place people can come for a really good piece of fresh fish," Niland explains.

The weekend brunch menu spans crab omelette, sardines on toast, sea urchin crumpet and oysters. "It's more early lunch than late breakfast," Niland says.

The chef is hopeful both seafood and Oxford Street are shifting up a gear. "The Paddington Inn is about to relaunch, and Freds is opening just along from us. It's good times," he adds.

362 Oxford Street, Paddington, facebook.com/saintpeterpaddington

Tuesday-Thursday, dinner only; Friday, lunch and dinner; Saturday –Sunday, brunch, lunch and dinner