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Just Open: Sugarcane, Coogee

Scott Bolles
Scott Bolles

Milan Strbac opens the Coogee branch of his Surry Hills restaurant Sugarcane on Tuesday, and while the food will transplant many of its menu staples, how will the inner-city restaurant translate in a coastal setting?

Ed Kenny, from Giant Design, was conscious of retaining the "essence" of Surry Hills while pumping up the beachside feel. "Where Surry Hills was inspired by the river houses and markets of Bangkok, Coogee sought its inspiration in Phuket's resorts. Warm timbers, festoon lights, tropical prints and white upholstery alongside a fresh seafood display, and full scale cocktail bar," he says.

Strbac, who will also amp up the seafood section of the menu with dishes such as scallop ceviche with lime and chilli, also has a few meat treats up his sleeve. Wagyu carpaccio and lamb neck curry made the cut, while the crispy chicken will make the trip east, but will be served with quince and blood orange.

Strbac nabbed the former site of Nissaki Greek Taverna in Coogee, maintaining the suburb offers more opportunity than oversupplied inner-city precincts.

Open Tues-Sun, 5.30pm-midnight

56 Carr Street, Coogee, 02 9281 1788 , sugarcanerestaurant.com.au

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Scott BollesScott Bolles writes the weekly Short Black column in Good Food.

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