Just Open: the Wine room at The Dolphin, Surry Hills

Maurice Terzini has opened countless hospitality venues during his career, but he's more jittery than usual in the lead up to tonight's unveiling of the Wine Room at The Dolphin Hotel.

Terzini has been present at the birth of some of Australia's most enduring restaurants, from Icebergs Dining Room and Bar to Melbourne's Café e Cucina. He even survived an eventful opening night at Otto Ristorante in Woolloomooloo when the sprinklers were activated.

Lack of sleep isn't uncommon on an opening week, but Terzini has an extra special attachment to the Wine Room. "In some ways it is an extension of what we started 20 years ago at The Melbourne Wine Room. It picks up what we started in Melbourne, which was anti-elitism with wine. We wanted something that's all about fun. It not the biggest list in the country, but it's well constructed."

With its own food menu, Terzini also wanted the Wine Room's interior to have its own personality rather than playing up to wine snobbery. "It's almost a bit kooky. Like a lot of the Dolphin, it's wrapped in fabric."

Even after all these years he's nervous about getting it right for the weekend opening. Known for his exacting standards, Terzini admits he's anxious. He'll test the systems early Friday night then open to the public from 9pm.

The Dolphin, 412 Crown Street, Surry Hills. Lunch; Fri-Sun, dinner; seven nights. dolphinhotel.com.au