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Madame Rouge, Fortitude Valley

Callan Boys
Callan Boys

What's the lowdown?

E'cco Bistro restaurant manager Mary Randles has opened a French-focused solo venture in the site once home to Gorditas. Her partner and E'cco owner/chef Philip Johnson has designed the menu, which is chock-full of bistro favourites from parfait to tartare to creme caramel.

Red curtains meet red carpet at Madame Rouge.
Red curtains meet red carpet at Madame Rouge.Jared Vethaak

Why should I care?

Because there's finally a classic French restaurant in the Valley. (Les Bubbles doesn't count because it only serves steak frites.)

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It's a handsome joint, too, with dark red drapes meeting dark red carpet, flickering candelabras, Toulouse-Lautrec prints and an "oh-champs Elysees!" soundtrack. A marble-topped bar horseshoes half the room and it's the kind of spot where a quick drinks become a long dinners.

The best thing is that it takes five minutes to forget you're in the M&A development, which feels more like ritzy train station than somewhere you want to eat.

Goat's cheese souffle.
Goat's cheese souffle.Supplied

What's on the menu?

Highlights from Johnson's carte include gratinated goat's cheese souffle ($16), char-grilled octopus with kipflers, roast peppers and paprika ($20), slow-cooked duck leg on a bed of puy lentils and kale ($32), John Dory a la meuniere ($35) and steak frites ($36).

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That's if you want a full feed, though. Pulling up a pew for a couple of oysters and a dirty martini is a perfectly excellent way to spend your time here.

French, Australian and New Zealand drops comprise a short wine list that hits all price points. Our pick is the Bill Downie 2015 Gippsland pinot noir ($145) and Randles says she hopes to add more big ticket French bottles in the future.

Steak frites fun times at Madame Rouge.
Steak frites fun times at Madame Rouge.Supplied

Randle and Johnson are professional operators and provide a level of hospitality beyond "how's-your-day-been?". Madame Rouge is a top addition to the off-James Street precinct and your new spot for boulevardiers and beignets.

Tues-Thurs & Sat 5pm-midnight; Fri noon-midnight; Sun noon-5pm

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11B/100 McLachlan Street Fortitude Valley, 07 3252 8881, madamerougebistro.com.au


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Callan BoysCallan Boys is editor of SMH Good Food Guide, restaurant critic for Good Weekend and Good Food writer.

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