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Moon Park team opens Paper Bird in Potts Point

Megan Johnston
Megan Johnston

Back in town: Shrimp-brined fried chicken.
Back in town: Shrimp-brined fried chicken.Supplied

Moon Park's fried chicken is back, Sydney, and this time you won't have to wait until dinner time. That's right – the team behind the hatted Korean eatery, which closed in Redfern last year after a three-year stint, is officially serving its signature Asian bird for breakfast, lunch - and very shortly tea - as of Monday, July 31.

It's no pop-up either - the former Bourke Street Bakery site has been signed for about eight years, so the crew is in for the long haul.

Chefs Ben Sears and Eun Hee An are behind the all-day Asian menu, which mixes elements of Japanese, Chinese and Taiwanese cooking with Australian cafe-style dishes.

King's congee with crab.
King's congee with crab.Supplied
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"The menu is a reflection of how we like to eat - flavours from across east Asia presented in a fun and informal way," Sears says.

Smashed avo is reinvented as avocado, sesame and coriander on rye; toasted muesli is served with persimmon, seeds and coyo; and perennial favourite bacon-and-egg roll is reincarnated as a breakfast bao, with ham, spinach and egg yolk in a fluffy steamed bun.

King's congee made with crab and milk makes an appearance, and comes with a serve of doughnut chips (think doughnuts cut into discs).

Ned Brooks, Ben Sears and Eun Hee An.
Ned Brooks, Ben Sears and Eun Hee An.Supplied

"It's congee made using milk rather than water or stock," manager Ned Brooks says. "Historically in Korea there was only one herd of dairy cattle and that belongs to the king - and the milk that came from them was a precious resource so the king's congee is the one that has the milk."

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From lunchtime, the soy-and-maple fried chicken is served alongside another Moon Park survivor: ddeokbokki (chewy Korean rice cakes), with chilli and peanuts. New dishes run from bibimbap with spanner crab, brussels sprouts and burnt butter to a Xi'an cumin lamb sausage roll, a nod to the previous tenants and bakery founders David McGuiness and Paul Allam, who are on board as silent partners.

Sommelier Tai Tate (Mary's) will be serving an 80-strong wine list heavy on natural styles, alongside OB lager and coffee from Single O.

Cucumber namul with roe and tofu cream.
Cucumber namul with roe and tofu cream.Supplied

Phillip Arnold from Plus Minus Design has given the 60-seater space a refresh, adding sound-proofing, rich green hues and new paint, but otherwise retaining some of the French-style features originally conceived by design masters Meacham Nockles McQualter for the bakery, including the zinc counter, wooden banquettes and signature brown walls.

Open Mon-Fri 7am-3pm, Sat-Sun 8am-3pm (dinner and evening bookings to come mid-August).

46a Macleay Street, Potts Point.

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Megan JohnstonMegan Johnston is a producer and writer for Good Food.

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