Sven-San serves Scando sushi in Paddington

Scando-Japanese food served in the spiritual home of modern Australian cuisine, say what?

Sven-San opened its restaurant doors on the weekend after trialling its kiosk-cafe, the latest project from Swedish restaurateur Michael Bengtsson (Vino e Cucina, Eat Thai).

"I ate here years ago when it was Phillip Searle's Oasis Seros and to be back in the same space is great," says Bengtsson.

"It's a contemporary Sydney restaurant with elements of Scandinavian and Japanese cuisines. Which we think means we can pretty much do anything we want."

That means smashed edamame "hummus" is served on prawn crackers, agedashi tofu is topped with ginger floss and there's a lobster "skagen toast".

"One of the dishes is a play on sushi," says Bengtsson. "We're calling it sushi cake – a big disc of rice with fresh seafood served on it."

Also in the kitchen is joint head-chef Say Thongchai.

"I didn't think Sydney was ready for this food a few years ago," he says. "But we reckon it is now."

Breakfast and lunch daily; dinner Wed-Sun

495 Oxford Street, Paddington