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The Wolfe crew opens La Lune Wine Co in South Brisbane

Callan Boys
Callan Boys

What's the lowdown?

Chef and restaurateur, Paul McGivern (the Wolfe), has opened a wine bar in South Brisbane's Fish Lane precinct. There's lots of booze, a bit of food, buckets of natural light, century-old oak panels and a number of handsome, polished surfaces to prop an elbow.

La Lune seats about 40 people. It's a super-casual place McGivern has designed to facilitate conversation with mates and dates, instead of phones and Facebook.

La Lune's handsome bar with century-old oak panelling.
La Lune's handsome bar with century-old oak panelling. Supplied

Why should I care?

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Because Brisbane has been in need of a new wine bar since Anise shut up shop in July.

The Wolfe's top talent is on board with chef Martyn Ridings playing a big role in the kitchen and sommelier Olivia Warne pouring all that's red, white and delicious. Warne (in collaboration with McGivern and his booze buddy, Nick Farr, from By Farr winery in Geelong, Victoria), has put together a cracking 120-bottle-strong list with one of the best by-the-glass selections in town.

There are minimal-intervention slammers like Commune of Buttons 'Sparrows' 2016 syrah ($15/$75), Marlborough sauvignon blanc you actually want to drink thanks to Te Whare Ra's ripe and fleshy 2016 vintage ($13/$62) and a smattering of Burgundy showstoppers such as Sylvie Esmonin 2014 Cote de Nuits Villages ($185).

Queensland is represented by Barambah, Tobin Wines and Le Petite Mort.

Kangaroo tartare with cocoa, juniper and smoked celeriac.
Kangaroo tartare with cocoa, juniper and smoked celeriac.Bradley Kanaris
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What's on the menu?

"The food is the supporting act," says McGivern. "The wine is the real focus. The rockstar."

The support band is damn attractive, though, and there's much in the way of booze-friendly small plates and charcuterie. The initial menu lists kangaroo tartare with juniper, cocoa and smoked celeriac ($18), raw tuna with kiwifruit, radish and saffron in witlof canoes ($16) and beetroot with black rice, cauliflower and mead vinegar ($16).

Hotter, more substantial items are on the carte if you're keen to turn drinks into dinner – veal tongue with miso, pumpkin and black sesame ($30), say, and chicken thigh with sorrel, eggplant and manchego custard ($34).

Grape juice on the pour at La Lune.
Grape juice on the pour at La Lune. Supplied
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What else do I need to know?

Cheese! A handful of composed cheese courses sound a treat, especially the L'Artisan Le Rouge washed rind, also out of Geelong, served with crisp potato, leek fondue and capers ($14) and Le Dauphin double creme with duxelles, porcini powder and plum ($14).

Open Tue-Sun noon-midnight.

Shop 5, 109 Melbourne Street, South Brisbane, lalunewineco.com.au

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Callan BoysCallan Boys is editor of SMH Good Food Guide, restaurant critic for Good Weekend and Good Food writer.

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