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Wine duo open Comptoir Cellars in Collingwood

Roslyn Grundy
Roslyn Grundy

Top-class tinned fish (such as garfish) can be paired with wine in-house or taken home from Comptoir Cellars.
Top-class tinned fish (such as garfish) can be paired with wine in-house or taken home from Comptoir Cellars.Gareth Sobey

Another apartment building, another ground-floor cafe? Not this time.

David Lawler and Tim Sacklin bring a combined 40 years' sommelier service to Comptoir Cellars, a combination wine bar, deli, bottle shop and wine consultancy at the base of Collingwood's Oxley Apartments.

At one end are the wine racks and at the other, shelves of luxe pantry goods, a bar, and a communal table, where you can sit and enjoy something from the small but constantly changing by-the-glass wine list, or pull a bottle from the racks for $10 corkage.

Comptoir Cellars in Collingwood.
Comptoir Cellars in Collingwood.Gareth Sobey
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On a blackboard is a pithy list of about 10 drink-friendly snacks – smoked salmon, salumi, top-class tinned fish – plus a hearty hot dish such as chorizo, chicken and chickpeas each day.

And if you're just calling in for treats to take home, the cabinet is stocked with ready-to-serve meals, terrines and cheeses and the shelves with Ortiz anchovies, sherry vinegar from Jerez, dried morels, Pommery mustard and paper-wrapped panforte.

The duo behind the business met while working at Rockpool Bar & Grill Melbourne, what sets Comptoir ("commtwah'') apart is their wine knowledge, which they'll happily share.

Lawler says Comptoir's wine range isn't vast but it is considered. "We have just one simple mandate – all wines must be delicious."

Open daily 10am to 11pm.

60 Stanley Street, Collingwood, comptoir.com.au

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Roslyn GrundyRoslyn Grundy is Good Food's deputy editor and the former editor of The Age Good Food Guide.

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