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Andrew McConnell opening Supernormal Canteen in St Kilda's former Luxembourg

Gemima Cody
Gemima Cody

Supernormal Canteen will feature a raw bar serving whatever fish is fresh.
Supernormal Canteen will feature a raw bar serving whatever fish is fresh.Joe Armao

Before Supernormal, there was Supernormal Canteen – a tighter, tinier, more free-wheeling version of Andrew McConnell's slick city Japanese restaurant. It lived for just 12 weeks in the Gertrude Street space that now holds his wine bar, Marion.

"It was the most fun my managers and I ever had with a restaurant," says McConnell. So they're doing it again, only permanently this time, in the Fitzroy Street space that was once Golden Fields, and more recently Luxembourg.

If you experienced proto-Supernormal, you already know what to expect: sake, highballs and a strong wine list by Supernormal sommelier Leanne Altmann.

The menu, from Supernormal sous chef Tim Geogan, will be a stripped-back version of the main city deal – a raw bar, but with two options instead of five, depending on whatever fish is fresh. The lobster roll, which originated at Golden Fields, will join a couple of other classics, plus there are plans to put a yakitori bar in the front to up the casual drink-and-a-snack energy of the place.

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"I think having a smaller offering allows you to do things better and be more fluid," says McConnell. "We'll be able to rotate a lot."

Looks-wise, McConnell is teaming up with Zenta Tanaka of Collingwood's Japanese homewares-store-meets-cafe Cibi. "Tanaka used to be an architect, and will be looking after the look of the place, bringing in handblown glasses from Tokyo, beautiful tables."

Supernormal Canteen will open at shop 2, 157 Fitzroy Street, St Kilda, in late July. Happy days.

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Gemima CodyGemima Cody is former chief restaurant critic for The Age and Good Food.

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