The Sydney Morning Herald logo
Advertisement

Arlechin, the Grossi family's new wine bar, takes shape

Gemima Cody
Gemima Cody

Buttermilk slider with baccala and crispy onions, the type of bar food Guy Grossi will serve at his new Melbourne wine bar, Arlechin.
Buttermilk slider with baccala and crispy onions, the type of bar food Guy Grossi will serve at his new Melbourne wine bar, Arlechin.Supplied

Arlechin, the Grossi family's new wine bar in Mornane Place, is shaping up to be about as Melbourne as a bar could get.

The formerly dumpster-filled alley has been transformed by street artist Makatron with murals depicting debauchery, food and the namesake Harlequin (aka Arlecchino, the comic git character in commedia dell'arte theatre), and composters have been installed to help the alley, and the businesses, go green.

Notable for late-night fans: the 40-seater will be open until 3am, slinging a wine list focusing primarily on Australia, Italy and France curated by young-gun sommelier George McCulloch. Romeo Lane's Joe Jones (who is also working on Mayfair, the do-over of Pei Modern due to open later this year) is training a team in classic cocktails and you'll be able to tackle every bar snack with one hand.

Advertisement

It is the least Italian of all the Grossi venues. There will be bolognese, but only in jaffle form. From there it's prawn cutlets and wasabi mayo, duck and porcini pies and buttermilk rolls filled with creamed cod and crisp leeks.

By day, groups will be able to book the room for events beneath the curved cork ceiling, surrounded by the Grossi Florentino cellar.

Arlechin is expected to open on July 1 in Mornane Place.

Restaurant reviews, news and the hottest openings served to your inbox.

Sign up
Gemima CodyGemima Cody is former chief restaurant critic for The Age and Good Food.

From our partners

Advertisement
Advertisement