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Curtis Stone's new LA restaurant Gwen opens this Tuesday

Gemima Cody
Gemima Cody

Gwen in Hollywood is LA's most hotly anticipated opening
Gwen in Hollywood is LA's most hotly anticipated openingWonho Frank Lee

It turns out smashed avo toast isn't the only think conquering LA. Curtis Stone, the sandy Australian treasure who's entranced California with his veg-centric fine diner Maude, opens Gwen Butcher Shop this Tuesday, and it's the biggest dining news on the West Coast.

This time, it's all about meat - a glittering cavern of twinkling chandeliers and ghostly greys offering tasting menus of rillettes, charcuterie and specialty cuts, all prepped in the Euro-style boutique butcher fronting the restaurant.

Picture a union of Melbourne's Meatsmith or Sydney's Victor Churchill (carcasses resplendent in glittering cases; house-made sausages and charcuterie for days) with a Rockpool Bar and Grill situation to the rear. Except, it's tasting menu only. And in Hollywood - smack in the middle of Sunset Boulevard in what was once the stunning Mercantile. It's flaming grills, hanging carcasses and luxe, soft banquettes - about as big of a counter to Maude's floral plates and veg degs as you could get.

Aussies Curtis and Luke Stone have opened LA's hottest new butcher-slash-fine-diner
Aussies Curtis and Luke Stone have opened LA's hottest new butcher-slash-fine-dinerGwen
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A collaboration with Stone's butcher brother Luke, Gwen is an homage to the pair's cattle farmer grandmother from Victoria. The goal is to be LA's top supplier, and griller, of rabbits, grouse, foie gras terrines and, on the beef front, David Blackmore's wagyu (the butcher will be the first and only US distributor of the prime Australian beef.)

Speaking of exports, it's actually another (almost) Australian working the impressive bar. Australian-claimed kiwi Mitch Bushell, who you may have met at Sydney's Hello Sailor is running the low-waste cocktail program, making cherry pit syrups to float your drink.

Too far to get to, too hot to ignore. It's at least proof that the dining jones we've had for American food is reciprocal.

If you are heading LA-wards, bookings are now open for August.

Gwen LA opens Tuesday July 12 at 6600 Sunset Boulevard, Los Angeles. https://gwenla.tocktix.com/#/home.

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Gemima CodyGemima Cody is former chief restaurant critic for The Age and Good Food.

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