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Gerard's Bistro chef Ben Williamson to take over The Apo kitchen

Callan Boys
Callan Boys

In a surprise shake up of Brisbane's food scene, Gerard's Bistro head chef Ben Williamson has been appointed to oversee the menu of Fortitude Valley venue The Apo.

Braden White, former head chef of the bar and restaurant, has left due to "creative differences" with management says Apo co-owner Johnny Moubarak.

"It took us a while to get our head around it not working with Braden," says Moubarak, who also counts Gerard's Bistro, Hatch & Co and Laruche in the portfolio he owns with his brothers Elie and Mel. "He's a great guy, but our directions were completely opposite. We wish him all the best."

The Apo opened in January and attracted mixed reviews from critics and consumers. White, former executive chef of Ricky's River Bar and Restaurant in Noosa, and has a "modern progressive" cooking style influenced by chefs like Noma's Rene Redzepi.

Components of White's Apo dishes included fish bone dressing, whipped stracciatella, fermented muntries, bull's blood and sea parsley. Even curds AND whey got a run.

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Braden White's sorrel nitrogen parfait at The Apo.
Braden White's sorrel nitrogen parfait at The Apo.Bradley Kanaris

"We just parted ways, it wasn't anything bad," says White. "The [Moubarak] boys have a vision for The Apo, which is more targeted towards the drinking crowd with bar snacks."

"They want the beverages to be the standout, I was just like, 'OK. Cool. Maybe you just need to get a junior guy in there or someone to oversee it'."

Moubarak denies The Apo wants to be more beverage focused.

"The Apo won't work as a drinks focused venue. The drinks are important but food needs to be a major focus, too. We want customers throughout the week, not just visiting for drinks on Friday and Saturday night. We wouldn't get Benny Williamson from Gerard's involved if food wasn't important."

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The Apo, Fortitude Valley. The bar and restaurant is housed in a former apothecaries hall.
The Apo, Fortitude Valley. The bar and restaurant is housed in a former apothecaries hall.Bradley Kanaris

The one-hatted Gerard's Bistro was awarded Vittoria Coffee Restaurant of the Year in the Brisbane Times 2015 Good Food Guide. Williamson will continue his involvement at Gerard's Bistro and Gerard's Bar in addition to his new role overseeing The Apo menu.

Williamson's Apo menu starts July 12. Moubarak says to expect a modern take on Lebanese food with a French thread.

"It will be fun and full of flavour. Very different from Gerard's Bistro which is more modern Australian with Middle Eastern elements".

White is unsure what's next for him in the restaurant world.

"I'm going to take an extended holiday for a little while and weigh up a few options," he says. "I've got a few guys in the industry who have given me a call to see what I'm up to, but I want spend a bit of time with my family first."

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Callan BoysCallan Boys is editor of SMH Good Food Guide, restaurant critic for Good Weekend and Good Food writer.

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