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Just Open: Andrew McConnell's Meatsmith butcher shop, Fitzroy

Gemima Cody
Gemima Cody

Andrew McConnell and Troy Wheeler at Meatsmith in Fitzroy.
Andrew McConnell and Troy Wheeler at Meatsmith in Fitzroy.Pat Scala

Meatsmith, the much-anticipated specialist butcher on Smith Street by chef-restaurateur Andrew McConnell (Builders Arms, Cumulus Inc. et al) and ex-Peter Bouchier butcher Troy Wheeler, is due to throw open the meat lockers next Tuesday.

The scale of the operation is staggering. It's part wholesaler (already supplying at least 10 restaurants), part commercial kitchen, part shop.

Out front: cuts of rare-breed beasts, pre-marinated and corned meats, smallgoods – salamis, potted foie gras and kidneys – and ready-to-eat dishes such as the Cumulus slow-cooked lamb shoulder. They'll also be selling wines, Japanese and Spanish knives, and likely dinner trim.

To the rear they're prepping every bit in giant fermenters, smokers, ovens and dry-ageing storerooms. Brace yourself for a sausage party, Melbourne.

273 Smith Street, Fitzroy, meatsmith.com.au

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Gemima CodyGemima Cody is former chief restaurant critic for The Age and Good Food.

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