Just Open: Indu Indian restaurant, Sydney CBD

Scott Bolles
Village goodness: Director Richard Prout and chef Bimal Kumar at new restaurant Indu in Sydney.
Village goodness: Director Richard Prout and chef Bimal Kumar at new restaurant Indu in Sydney. Photo: louise kennerley

Indu might prove to be the restaurant poster child for good karma. Located on the corner of George Street and Angel Place in the city, the restaurant opened on Monday and is inspired by aid work undertaken by Indu's owner, Dr Sam Prince, a medical doctor, philanthropist and restaurateur.

"Patients in India couldn't afford to pay us money so they would invite us to their homes to eat," he says.

"I started thinking about how healthy the food Indians eat at home is compared with the colonial Indian cooked in restaurants. The Sri Lankan food I had at home growing up was really wholesome and fresh and I think people want that in a restaurant."

Clams and mussels in Kerala-style coconut broth.
Clams and mussels in Kerala-style coconut broth. Photo: Supplied

Prince wanted to "go back to the village" with the food at Indu and the restaurant's interior – much of it crafted by Project Z – latches onto that brief as well with mud bricks and rammed earth walls.

A satellite dosa kitchen takes centre stage so diners are hit with the sounds and smells of Indian cooking.

"We want to show that we make things fresh when many people's experience of Indian is out of a microwave or bain marie," Prince says.

Pumpkin and green mango curry.
Pumpkin and green mango curry. Photo: Supplied

"We'll also freshly grind coconut sambal at the table".

Chef Bimal Kumar uses Prince's family recipe for dahl as well as punching out dishes including a watermelon salad and slow-braised devilled beef cheek.

"In the same way humans evolved from apes and Mexican food moved on from bad Tex Mex, Indian is ready to take the next step," Prince says.

Open Tue-Fri noon-3.30pm and 5pm-10pm; Sat 5pm-10pm.

350 George Street (basement level), Sydney CBD, 9223 0158, indudining.com.au