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Just Open: Pondicherry, Rydalmere

Scott Bolles
Scott Bolles

Pondicherry's intriguing butter chicken marshmallow.
Pondicherry's intriguing butter chicken marshmallow.Supplied

Attention Sydney food nerds, it's time to say hello to the butter chicken marshmallow. The marshmallow sits in an ensemble of candy beetroot and chicken tikka at a new restaurant, Pondicherry, opening this week, further proof Sydney is in the midst of a full-blown invasion from the subcontinent.

Doctor-restaurateur Sam Prince is poised to swing open the doors at Indu, on George Street in the city, Bang is opening an Indian street food venue on Crown Street this month, even Longrain has opened the curry-leaning Subcontinental in its basement.

But Pondicherry, the new home of the butter chicken marshmallow, signals a return to the suburban roots of Indian food in Sydney, located in Rydalmere. The 50-seat restaurant also signals a different pitch for the cuisine. "It's inspired by [the movie] The Hundred-Foot Journey, but really India has long history of French colonies in places like Pondicherry," says chef Opel Khan.

The opening menu melds fennel pollen with a beef fillet "black" curry and ghee poached salmon is teamed with a Madras fish consomme. "We'll shave foie gras on the duck a l'orange," the chef says.

Pondicherry, 1 Euston Street, Rydalmere. Pondicherry's entrance is through the Palate which is on the corner of Euston Street and 279 Victoria Rd Rydalmere.

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Scott BollesScott Bolles writes the weekly Short Black column in Good Food.

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