Just open: The Stinking Bishops, Enmore

The Stinking Bishops in Enmore opened on April 1.
The Stinking Bishops in Enmore opened on April 1. 

Enmore Road just keeps on pumping. The Stinking Bishops cheesemonger/winebar is the newest addition to this hot eat street, joining the likes of Hartsyard, The Midnight Special and Osteria di Russo & Russo among the thrift stores and takeaway joints of this former inner west wasteland (and we're still waiting with bated breath to see what the Porteno boys have in store).

Jamie Nimmo and Kieran Day have gifted Enmore a selection of ewe-beaut cheeses from Australia and beyond. Comte, cheddar, tilsit, tellegio, manchego, morbier, and other fancy fromage chill in a hefty fridge with their charcuterie buddies. Punters can take the cheese home and eat sinfully in front of the telly or consume in the white-tiled shop with a glass of whisky, wine or beer.

In the 'more substantial' stakes, the 'Mr Crispy' toasted cheese sandwich is a lunchtime must, filled with smoked wagyu beef, gruyere, horseradish mayonnaise and pickles (there are ham and mushroom versions too). But there's also much to love about the dinner menu.

Day (formally of Redfern's The Eathouse Diner) has designed a menu true to his English roots featuring duck rillettes, proper pork pie, smoked mackerel and slow-cooked beef cheek.

Light food? No. Delicious? Absolutely.

The smoked wagyu beef sandwich 'Mr Crispy'.
The smoked wagyu beef sandwich 'Mr Crispy'. Photo: Lidia Nikonova

The Stinking Bishop, 63-71 Enmore Road, Enmore, thestinkingbishops.com