Just Open: The Stone Hotel, Fitzroy

The commanding corner of Brunswick and Johnston Streets in Fitzroy was until recently covered in graffiti tags. They've been replaced with a fresh, white coat and a section of tight-knit patterned calligraphy-like swirls. The pub has been transformed into the Stone Hotel by co-owner Tom Tschui and his old man (also Tom).

With an agenda to serve "good drinking food", head chef Luke Eckersall (ex-The Farm Cafe, Ladro) is shaping playful share plates like his signature bacon doughnuts (pictured), pickled cauliflower and heartier helpings of pork jowl. Vegetarian and gluten-free options feature among the staple burgers.

Craft brews from the likes of Sample, Barrow Boys and Parrot Dog rotate across the 10 taps, and there's a Holgate house beer – the first, a French-style saison with a base of smoked hops. The wine selection has an organic, preservative-free leaning.

The cavernous space takes on a modern industrial feel, with concrete, wood, brick and copper.

Open Mon-Thu 11.30am-1am; Fri-Sat 11.30am-3am; Sun 11.30am-11pm.

298-300 Brunswick Street, Fitzroy, 9419 6413, thestonehotel.com.au