Just Open: Up in Smoke, Footscray

New barbecue joint Up in Smoke is set to shake up smoke-and-fire traditionalists when it officially opens in Footscray this Thursday with a menu that co-owner Shayne McCallum describes as "American-ish".

McCallum is a bit of a pioneer in the area. He brought the first decent burger joint to the neighbourhood (nearby 8bit, which recently expanded to a second CBD outlet), now he's transformed an old kitchenware shop, just past Footscray Market on Hopkins Street, into an industrial home for his $20,000 double barrel Yoder Frontiersman offset smoker. You can look but you can't touch; it's safely tucked behind a glass partition.

"We're not trying to be too traditional" says McCallum, referring to the distinct regional differences in America's barbecue culture. "Texas-rub with a Kansas sauce? Sure, if people like it, that's great."

A street-side beer garden space will soon be fully functional (sometime next week); for now a 60-seat dining room with a '70s industrial vibe (think brushed cement tabletops, charcoal-black brickwork and copper pipes) offers a more traditional dining experience, bar seating for 16 or so is good for a casual bite.

Heading the kitchen is long-time friend Robi Smith (ex-Zigfrids in Geelong), who's been itching to get his hands on another smoker since he ran now-closed rockabilly diner Hard Luck Cafe in Auckland.

Smith will run the smoker overnight, and brisket, pulled pork and beef short ribs will be ready from 6pm (until sold out). During the day there'll be brisket sandwiches, tacos and salads for the lunch crowd.

They're making dry rubs and sauces in-house – eventually you'll be able to buy them off the shelf; there's an adjoining shopfront which will become a "grocery store" for takeaway sandwiches, coffee, chilli sauces, mustards and other barbecue-related dry goods.

As you'd expect, there's a good selection of mid-range bourbon, rum and tequila and they're focusing on a rotating list of Australian craft beer across 10 taps (the more local, the better, McCallum says) without getting hoity-toity – you can still grab a pot of Carlton Draught for $4.50.

Open daily from 11am-late (smoked meats available from 6pm).

28 Hopkins Street, Footscray, 03 9689 8188, upinsmoke.net.au