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Potts Point loses Opium Den and Gastro Park, gains Nung Len and Antipodean

Scott Bolles
Scott Bolles

The Opium Den in Potts Point has become Nung Len, after the NSW liquor licensing authority rejected an application under the old name.
The Opium Den in Potts Point has become Nung Len, after the NSW liquor licensing authority rejected an application under the old name.Opium Den

Sydney's Opium Den has shut, the Potts Point venue the latest victim among controversially named Sydney establishments. New owner Ludovic Geyer closed Opium Den and has just reopened it as Nung Len after he received the cold shoulder regarding a liquor licence while trading under its old name.

Geyer produced correspondence from NSW police, stating no objection to Nung Len receiving a licence but expressing concern that Opium Den signage was still on the building's facade (at the time of writing).

"Police consider this name to be inappropriate and objectionable in accordance with S95 of the Liquor Act," it states.

The cheekily named venue's owners have long rallied against the liquor licensing approach, some branding NSW a nanny state without a sense of humour.

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In 2009 Swillhouse, a nod to Sydney's drinking history, was rejected. "The authority believes the name Swillhouse has inappropriate connotations with excessive drinking and does not reflect the strong focus on responsible service and consumption of alcohol under the state's liquor laws," a spokesperson said at the time.

The Spooning Goats was also knocked back in 2015. The NSW Liquor Act isn't specific about what it will and won't allow, but can reject premises names deemed "objectionable, inappropriate or misleading".

Geyer says the Opium Den's former owner warned him that he didn't have a chance at a licence with the old name.

"So we called it Nung Len, which means sit and chill in Thai. We cook Thai favourites, the chef is from the north-east so we have some regional specialties like Thai-style salmon tartare, curried fish custard and fermented pork sausage." Sounds a little racy.

GASTRO PARK MORPHS INTO ANTIPODEAN

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Antipodean Restaurant and Bar will open at the end of May in the soon to be vacated Potts Point space where Gastro Park closes on May 20. Owner-chef Grant King recently called time on the chef-hatted fine diner, with Gastro Park set to join a citywide casualty list including Marque, Eleven Bridge, Guillaume and Silvereye.

"I'm a Kiwi in Australia," King says. "A buddy suggested it (Antipodean). To tell the truth, I thought it'd be taken."

The "casual" restaurant will focus on Antipodean produce and producers.

"It will be more than just native produce; it'll be local," he says. "For instance, there won't be any French cheese. I've found some people making Spanish-style aged ham. We'll prune the 240-bottle wine list to 40 or 50 Australian and New Zealand wines. I'm calling it 99 per cent antipodean just to cover myself, if I want to use some sherry vinegar or something."

The fine dining chef says he's excited about reinventing the space as a casual restaurant, and even intends to introduce brunch. "Gastro Park had become a special occasion place. I want to be a great local restaurant. I'm looking forward to putting two or three ingredients on a plate, no fuss"

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Scott BollesScott Bolles writes the weekly Short Black column in Good Food.

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