As certain as death and taxes, come the last week in August there will be chefs and restaurateurs who are either delighted or disappointed when The Age Good Food Guide 2014 gongs are handed out. So who were the winners and losers at tonight's awards ceremony?
Let's start with the good news.
Flower Drum (two hats to three), Grossi Florentino and Spice Temple (one to two), Rosetta (debuts with two). Centonove, Da Noi, Epocha, Grossi Florentino Grill, Hare & Grace, Healesville Hotel, Huxtable, Kazuki's, Merricote, Oscar W's, Paringa Estate, Pure South, Saint Crispin, Simone's, Taxi DiningRoom, the Terrace Restaurant and Tonka all go from zero to one.
Stokehouse and Tea Rooms of Yarck (two hats to one), and Gills Diner, the Italian Restaurant and Bar, the Long Table, Mercer's, Paladarr, River Grill, Shoya, Steer Bar & Grill, and Town Hall Hotel (one to none).
Two restaurants were unscored: the Royal Mail Hotel in Dunkeld, whose previous chef, Dan Hunter, with exquisite timing, announced he was leaving just as the Guide went to press, and the Commoner in Fitzroy, which reopened after our deadline with a new kitchen team and a fresh look following a fire in April.