Egg of the Universe

Simple charm: Egg of the Universe cafe, Rozelle.
Simple charm: Egg of the Universe cafe, Rozelle. Photo: Marco Del Grande

711 Darling Street Rozelle, New South Wales 2039

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02 9810 3146
Opening hours Daily 7.30am-3.30pm
Features Gluten-free options, Vegetarian friendly
Prices Moderate (mains $20-$40)

Do kids and wholefoods mix? The question crosses my mind as we sit down to lunch at Egg of the Universe in Rozelle. I cast my mind back to the number of times in the past few months when I've tried, with limited success, to get my children to eat brown (rather than white) rice. So our visit to this ''living wholefoods cafe'' will be an interesting test.

The small space is simply decorated and furnished with timber tables and benches in the front and a courtyard out back. A yoga studio is upstairs, and class participants wander in and out.

The drinks list includes ''cleansers'', juices and super smoothies, some with ingredients I've never heard of, such as maca (a Peruvian root rich in minerals) and Shakti Superfood (vitamins, plant protein and bee pollen).

The SuperBLAT hits the spot.
The SuperBLAT hits the spot. Photo: Marco Del Grande

Lulu's thrilled with her chocolate berry smoothie - made from raw cacao, berries, banana and coconut milk. It's rich and delicious but contains no added sugar. That's one I'll definitely try at home; at $9 a pop here it could become an expensive habit.

I opt for a probiotic kefir - fermented water with ginger, turmeric and goji berries - which is like a refreshingly unsweetened ginger beer. The single goji tastes like a soggy strawberry, but I'm sure it's doing me good.

The short, all-day menu takes you from breakfast to lunch, and the website claims they aim to feed ''vegans to omnivores''. They haven't included the subgroup of eight-year-old boys with enormous appetites who've just played three hours of cricket or slightly fussy six-year-old girls.

Fortunately for Archie, the SuperBLAT - two slices of spelt sourdough smeared with avocado, slices of heirloom tomatoes, lashings of crisp bacon and drizzled with home-made aioli - hits the spot. It includes hemp seeds, which I'm wary of, although I'm told later they are packed with important amino acids.

My kicharis is a spicy, earthy dahl and rice mix with pickles and minty yoghurt. Served in a small bowl, it feels more like a side dish than a main and at $14 seems expensive. My husband orders slow-cooked lamb with chermoula, dukkah and dates. He's served a variation - long threads of slow-cooked meat in a brothy sauce topped with steamed vegetables. There's no sign of the dukkah or dates and no explanation why.

Bacon and eggs is also a hit for Lulu and Archie's friend Mitchell, who's with us. He pronounces the Feather & Bone organic smoked bacon as the best he's ever eaten. However, neither are particularly keen on the accompanying shot glass of pickle juice, to assist in fat digestion, and let out embarrassingly loud squeals of ''That's disgusting!'' and ''Yuk!''

Kids and wholefoods? Yes and no. You need to choose carefully, but Egg of the Universe is a good place to start.

THE LOW-DOWN

Do … try it out on the kids.
Don't …
expect them to love everything
Dish …
SuperBLAT
Vibe …
Chilled-out haunt for healthy wholefooders and yoga bunnies

http://eggoftheuniverse.com/