E-San Saap

378 Pitt Street Sydney, NSW 2000

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Opening hours Mon-Fri 10am–11pm; Sat–Sun 11am–11pm
Features BYO, Vegetarian friendly
Prices Moderate (mains $20-$40)
Payments Cash
Phone 02 9267 9604

You say Isan, they say Esan. It really doesn’t matter so long as we’re clear that this casual spot remains a must for lovers of pungent north eastern Thai food (despite new owners and a name tweak: it was Saap Thai). The menu still features an extensive som tum section, including a dozen-odd different versions of the fiery but fresh shredded green papaya salad. A sweet milky Thai iced tea will help quell the heat. Also good: chewy but not tough strips of dried beef, deep-fried; and pad ped pha dook, stir-fried catfish, its peppery pep makes dodging fishbones worthwhile.