Gloria’s Portuguese Restaurant

82 Audley Street Petersham, New South Wales 2049

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Opening hours Mon-Fri 9.30am-10pm; Sat 9am-10pm; Sun winter only 10am-3pm
Features Licensed, BYO
Prices Moderate (mains $20-$40)
Payments eftpos, Mastercard, Visa
Phone 02 9568 3966

Sometimes it seems the smallest countries boast the biggest flavours, and pocket-sized Portugal is no exception. Gloria’s does all the classics: salted and charcoal-blackened cod fish, smoked pork stews, king prawns with chilli and enough garlic to ward off the most determined vampire. More subtle is goat roasted with bay leaves, served with vinegary salad and slow-roasted vegetables. Serves are as generous as the space is tiny. After 25 years the decor is showing its age, but never mind: you’re there for timeless dishes such as grilled chorizo to start, pork rolls for lunch and sweetly flaky Portuguese tarts to finish.