Christmas 2013: top picks for panettone

These rich Italian yeasted butter cakes have been around for centuries, but it wasn't until the early 20th century, when a Milanese baker perfected a multiple fermentation technique, that they developed into their current cathedral dome-like shape. Popular in Italy, particularly Milan, over Christmas and New Year, panettone entered the Australian Christmas repertoire only in the past few decades. The cakes are now a rich but light start to the big day often served with moscato or prosecco. The panelists were looking for moist, buttery panettone with a nice hit of aroma, perhaps vanilla, and fat, plump evenly spaced fruit along with a judicious smattering of mixed peel.

Rankings:

First: Simon Johnson Panettone
1kg $49.50, simonjohnson.com

Although the panelists were not allowed to see the packaging, this Italian-made beauty arrives in a post-box red squat cylinder with red cord handle. It's rich, moist, light and has a lovely aroma. This panettone was highly recommended by the panel.

Second: Woolworths Gold
750g $17 ($26 per kg), Woolworths supermarkets

This exception to the rule that "expensive is better" comes in an attractive dark box with a gold ribbon and costs under $20. The panelists liked its toasted almond crust, moist crumb and plump fruit.

1.12kg for $57.95 ($50 per kg), Leo's Supermarkets Melbourne, Thomas Dux stores, rawmaterials.com.au

Third: G. Cova & Co.

Such an attractive panettone, this comes wrapped in a poster-sized sheet of thick paper printed with a blue and cream retro design and tied up with a rustic piece of string. Rich, moist and buttery, this is a panettone that will suit every palate.

Fourth: Baroni Panettone
900g for $7 ($8 per kg), Coles supermarkets

In an attractive little red box with a print of the Colosseum to prove it is made in Italy, this attractive-looking, compact panettone let itself down in texture. Made with palm oil instead of butter and scant uneven fruit, it failed to impress the judges.

Fifth: Dolce Piacere Pandoro (gluten free option)
500g $18 ($36 per kg), Enoteca Sileno, Carlton, Melbourne and Deli Cucina, Edgecliff (Sydney)

Small and coated in chocolate, this gluten-free cake is not a panettone but was added to let people who cannot eat gluten know that there are Christmas treats available for them as well. A dense sponge cake dipped in chocolate, this could be dunked in coffee or a little sweet wine as a Christmas treat.