Bryan Martin: How to grill perfect lobster rolls

Decadence is my theme today. Have a think of the most decadent meal you've had and reflect on what made it thus. Perhaps it was a Liberal Party fundraiser, where white truffles were flown in for the occasion, or that special event where you popped a cork on a bottle of Oenotheque Perignon Dom but just the mere mention of this luxury food will have everyone thinking: "Mmm, fancy!".

Lobster and crayfish are definitely in this genre and will tend to need deep pockets. In Australia, we have one of the most highly sought-after species, the southern rock lobster. I got up-close and personal with these crustaceans 20 years ago when my blushing bride and I went to live in Tasmania and run a tourist hotel on the east coast, at a place romantically called Eaglehawk Neck.

The Lufra country hotel was and still is perched on the cliffs at the north end of Pirates Bay over what is known as the tessellated pavements. If you've been to this area you know there are so many geological features like these intricately defined blocks, which are the remnants of earthquakes years ago, and other attractions such as the Blowhole and Devil's Kitchen.

This dramatic coastline is home to so many different species of aquatic life. One of the main economic drivers of the Tasman peninsula are these spiny lobsters, or simply "crays", as they are called here, plus bluefin tuna and certain aromatic plants that are hidden deep in the dwindling rainforests.

We used to keep a big cray tank at the back of the kitchens full during the tourist season so people could sup on the freshest and most succulent crays around. Our tank was kept full, mostly due to the huge bar tabs in the top bar. Once they got out of hand you'd get a late-night delivery of these and other contraband like abalone, whitebait and king crabs to settle the debts.

It sure was a strange economy, if the crays were on the move it would be high times in the bar, where it was pointless to try to close it until everyone had had their fill of Cascade Blue, Irish whiskey and Green Ginger Wine.

These same crayfish are now claiming huge prices and being exported to far-off lands. Back then you could buy one for around $50 and we'd cook it for you. It wasn't fancy by any means, just cooked in boiling salt water for a set time, halved and served with lemon and butter.

This was a special experience even though we were run ragged by these crazy locals, who for our entire time there tested our patience and nerve. You have no idea how hard it is to close a bar, on your own, full of fishermen who have been out on the long-lines for a week and returned with a bumper crop of tuna. They weren't too convinced as to our RSA house policy, you could say, and the local cop was half an hour away if he wasn't in the bar anyway.

Another way of cooking crays, one that isn't as confronting as trying to drown a live one that clearly doesn't want to be drowned, is to just use the tails and grill them with lots of butter and lemon. Popular these days, for all sorts of reasons, is the lobster roll.

There is something about having one of these luxury, decadent foods in ordinary settings that makes them so much better than in some restaurant. Like the truffle toastie, a lobster roll is a defining street food.

In the following recipe, I've paired it with a simple apple slaw and watercress and whacked it all inside a brioche roll. Sure they are sweet but they are cheap and work so well with fancy stuff like lobsters.

Grilled lobster rolls

1 large lobster tail
¼ cup butter
2 lemons
2 baby turnips
2 large radish
1 apple
1 tube Kewpie mayonnaise
1 tbsp chopped chives
1 bunch watercress
4 small brioche rolls
salt and pepper

Heat a griddle or grill. Melt the butter and add the zest and juice from one lemon, season well with salt and pepper, keep warm. Cut the lobster tail in half lengthways and brush liberally with the butter and lemon mixture.

Cook cut side down for 5 minutes and flip them over. Cook for another 4-5 minutes giving them plenty of basting.

Once cooked, set aside to cool. Meanwhile make the dressing by finely shredding the turnips, radish and apple. Add enough mayo to make it a thickish sauce and grate over the zest of the lemon and its juice. Mix in the chives.

Pick over the watercress. Once the lobster is cool, mix with any leftover baste and chill. To serve, cut the buns in half and grill to toast the cut side. Add mayonnaise mixture, plenty of lobster and top with watercress.

Bryan Martin is the winemaker at Clonakilla and Ravensworth.