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Five of a kind: Asian herbs

Lauren Wambach

Look for bunches of fish mint at KV Fresh Fruit at the Footscray Market.
Look for bunches of fish mint at KV Fresh Fruit at the Footscray Market.Lauren Wambach

FISH MINT

Want to win a bet? Ask a mate to close their eyes and wager they can't guess what you put under their nose. Proceed to crush a soft, green, heart-shaped Houttuynia cordata leaf under their schnozz. The aroma that erupts is so distinctly fishy you are guaranteed to emerge the winner. Look for bunches of fish mint at KV Fresh Fruit at the Footscray Market, and in other Asian fresh food markets. Just as sulphuric black salt is used to evoke eggs in vegan recipes, those pining for seafood may like to experiment with it.

SAWTOOTH CORIANDER

Sawtooth coriander.
Sawtooth coriander.Lauren Wambach
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The kitchen herb garden is not populated by equals. While stoic rosemary and thyme will abide for years, fickle coriander is wont to go to seed days after it is planted. Try planting sawtooth coriander instead, which has a longer growing season. This herb has long serrated leaves and a very similar scent and flavour to its feathery-leafed cousin. Buy it in bunches at Asian markets, in pots from street sellers in Footscray or Asian grocers in Springvale.

CURRY LEAVES

Glossy green curry leaves are an essential element of south Indian cooking. Find these small, pointed leaves, still attached to their slender stems, fresh in bags in the refrigerated section of Indian groceries. Heat oil till shimmering, toss in curry leaves, garlic, and mustard and cumin seeds. After a few seconds of popping, tip the lot into a humble pot of red lentils for a simple yet sublime dahl. Fresh leaves may be frozen, and dried versions are also available but, as always, fresh is best.

Curry leaves are an essential element of south Indian cooking.
Curry leaves are an essential element of south Indian cooking.Lauren Wambach
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HOLY BASIL

Holy basil is so named because of its use in Hindu religious ceremonies. In Thailand, this spicy herb receives more temporal treatment, tossed with minced pork or chicken in delicious pad krapow. Holy basil has slightly scalloped green leaves on tall stems. It is difficult to source locally but Talad Thai grocer in Ferguson Street, Abbotsford, is a good bet. Here, it's flown in from Darwin on Tuesdays and Fridays. If making a special trip, call ahead to ensure it's arrived.

Perilla is related to basil and mint, with a more anise-like flavour.
Perilla is related to basil and mint, with a more anise-like flavour.Supplied

PERILLA

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Perilla comes in red and green varieties, and the striking, slightly hairy, dark purple leaves of the "red" variety are more commonly seen in Australia. It is related to basil and mint, with a more anise-like flavour. The Japanese know this herb as shiso and like to fry whole leaves tempura style. Buy perilla in bunches from Asian markets, either alone or in a bundle of mixed mints, alongside peppermint and Vietnamese mint. At home, try it tucked into rice-paper rolls.

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