Flex your mussels

After using incredible Tasmanian mussels in my cooking for 10 years, I recently got to visit Spring Bay in eastern Tasmania, where I witnessed the amazing effort that goes into producing every kilo of the shellfish. Each one that makes its way to your plate has been checked and sorted by at least 13 people - now that's real mussel love.

My feeling when it comes to this sort of seafood is, keep it simple. I want to taste the briny, fresh sea flavour; even in this red curry, the broth is kept quite subtle to make sure the mussel flavour is up front and centre.

Clean your mussels well, make sure to tear the beards off, then give them a quick rinse under cold water. Some may float, as they have lost liquid and have air trapped in their shells; they are still alive and safe to eat. Don't store mussels in airtight containers or they will suffocate.

MUSSELS ESCABECHE

3kg mussels

400ml dry white wine

4 bay leaves

80ml extra virgin olive oil

1 brown onion, finely sliced

4 garlic cloves, finely sliced

160ml best quality chardonnay vinegar

1 tsp sweet smoked paprika

6 whole black peppercorns

Scrub mussels and pull out hairy beards. Rinse well and drain.

Place mussels, 250 millilitres of the wine and bay leaves in a wide, heavy-based saucepan. Cover and cook over medium heat, shaking the pan occasionally, for 5 minutes, or just until mussels begin to open.

As soon as they open, remove from the pan and place in a colander set over a bowl. Allow to cool, removing mussels from their shells and reserving cooking liquid for another dish such as soup or risotto (see tip below).

To make escabeche, heat oil in a heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. Add onion, garlic and a pinch of salt and cook for 5 minutes, or until the onion is lightly coloured. Add vinegar, paprika, peppercorns and remaining wine, then bring to the boil over high heat. Reduce heat and simmer for 8 minutes, then remove from heat and leave to cool for 10 minutes.

Stir mussels into escabeche and pour into a shallow dish. Leave to cool, then cover and refrigerate overnight. Serve chilled.

Serves 6

Tip

To make a light soup with the reserved mussel stock, sweat 2 eschalots and 1 diced carrot in some olive oil, add 500 millilitres of mussel stock and half a tin of chopped tomatoes then bring to the boil. Add 100 millilitres of thickened cream and finish with a sprinkle of chopped French tarragon. Serve with crusty bread.

RED CURRY OF MUSSELS

400ml coconut milk

4 tbsp Thai red curry paste

3 tbsp palm sugar

4 tbsp fish sauce

5 kaffir lime leaves

3.5kg fresh mussels

4 limes, 2 juiced

1 bunch coriander, leaves picked

Place a heavy-based saucepan on a medium heat.

Add 100 millilitres of the coconut milk and curry paste and fry until coconut milk splits and paste smells fragrant. Add sugar and fish sauce then cook for 5 minutes.

Add lime leaves and remaining coconut milk and bring to the boil.

Add mussels, reduce heat to medium, then cover saucepan with a lid. Cook for about 4 minutes or until mussels open, add lime juice and coriander and give the pot a shake.

Divide mussels between four bowls and pour sauce over them. Serve with half a lime.

Serves 4