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How to make the perfect pavlova

The first rule of pav club is fear not the pav, says Rob Kabboord, from Melbourne's Merricote restaurant. He shares his tips and a recipe with Roslyn Grundy.

Roslyn Grundy
Roslyn Grundy

1. The finished product .. Rob Kabboord's pavlova
1 / 151. The finished product .. Rob Kabboord's pavlovaMelanie Faith Dove
2. Beat the eggs until soft peaks form
2 / 152. Beat the eggs until soft peaks formMelanie Faith Dove
3. With the machine still beating, add the sugar all at once, then beat on high speed for another minute
3 / 153. With the machine still beating, add the sugar all at once, then beat on high speed for another minuteMelanie Faith Dove
4. The sugar should completely dissolve. The mixture should reach the ribbon stage
4 / 154. The sugar should completely dissolve. The mixture should reach the ribbon stageMelanie Faith Dove
5. Slow the machine, add vinegar and let the beaters make three more rotations before removing bowl from the mixer
5 / 155. Slow the machine, add vinegar and let the beaters make three more rotations before removing bowl from the mixerMelanie Faith Dove
6. After sprinkling the cornflour, use a clean spatula to gently fold the flour through the mixture. No more than six folds
6 / 156. After sprinkling the cornflour, use a clean spatula to gently fold the flour through the mixture. No more than six foldsMelanie Faith Dove
7.Spoon the mix onto a prepared tray and mould it into the shape you want. Don't linger; it's important to get your meringue into the oven as quickly as possible.
7 / 157.Spoon the mix onto a prepared tray and mould it into the shape you want. Don't linger; it's important to get your meringue into the oven as quickly as possible. Melanie Faith Dove
8. Place the tray in the middle of the oven and immediately turn the temperature down to 120 degrees Celsius
8 / 158. Place the tray in the middle of the oven and immediately turn the temperature down to 120 degrees CelsiusMelanie Faith Dove
9. Kabboord's favoured method of making pavlova is to add passionfruit custard, fresh fruit and goat's curd. Step 1: Remove the top of the meringue.
9 / 159. Kabboord's favoured method of making pavlova is to add passionfruit custard, fresh fruit and goat's curd. Step 1: Remove the top of the meringue. Melanie Faith Dove
10. Once you've removed the top, it's time to add your passionfruit custard
10 / 1510. Once you've removed the top, it's time to add your passionfruit custardMelanie Faith Dove
11. Spoon the custard into the pavlova and smooth
11 / 1511. Spoon the custard into the pavlova and smoothMelanie Faith Dove
12. Top the custard with fresh fruit.
12 / 1512. Top the custard with fresh fruit. Melanie Faith Dove
13. Add a dollop of fresh goat's curd or mascarpone (cream is boring)
13 / 1513. Add a dollop of fresh goat's curd or mascarpone (cream is boring)Melanie Faith Dove
14. Replace the top of the meringue.PhotoMelanie Faith Dove
14 / 1514. Replace the top of the meringue.PhotoMelanie Faith DoveMelanie Faith Dove
15. Rob Kabboord of Merricote and his delicious, foolproof pavlova.Dig in!
15 / 1515. Rob Kabboord of Merricote and his delicious, foolproof pavlova.Dig in!Melanie Faith Dove

Dutch chef Rob Kabboord was introduced to this delicacy while working at London's Waldorf hotel, where he made individual pavlovas for banquets using 50 litres of egg white at a time. It's the same foolproof recipe he wrote in his notebook, which always travels with him.

We may never resolve the question of whether pavlova originated in Australia or New Zealand, but we can all agree that it's an impressive dessert, even if it does strike fear in the hearts of nervous cooks and can trip up even experienced chefs. Kabboord says the perfect pav is simply a matter of following a few rules.

Before you start:

• Make sure your whisking bowl is clean. Give it a light wash with vinegar before use.

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• Have everything ready on the bench. When you start mixing the pavlova, you should not stop, unless your kitchen is on fire.

• The whole thing should take less than 10 minutes (not including cooking time) to prepare.

• Make sure the eggs are as fresh as possible.

• The egg whites must not contain any trace of yolk. Separate the eggs individually and bring the whites to room temperature.

• Use the yolks to make a delicious custard for the pav (see below).

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Rob Kabboord's foolproof pavlova

Ingredients

4 egg whites (5 if you are using small eggs)

250g pure icing sugar or fine castor sugar, sifted

½ teaspoon white vinegar

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1 tablespoon cornflour, sifted

Method

1. Preheat your oven to 200 degrees Celsius.

2. Prepare a baking tray by placing baking paper on it. Put a little melted butter or vegetable oil spray on the tray so that the paper will stay in one place while you are spooning the pavlova mix on to it.

3. Using an electric mixer, beat the egg whites on a medium setting until soft peaks form.

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Once soft peaks appear, add the sugar all at once and beat the mixture for a minute or so on full speed. Do not stop the machine to add the sugar. It needs to be a continuous process to trap as much air as possible in the egg whites. You'll see the mixture change texture almost immediately, from loose, soft peaks to a more glossy, meringue-style mixture.

4. Turn the mixer up to high until the mixture thickens and the sugar has completely dissolved. It needs to reach the ribbon stage – when a spoonful of the meringue mixture poured back into the bowl sits on the surface like a ribbon.

5. Slow the machine, add the vinegar and let the beaters make three rotations, then remove the bowl from the mixer.

6. Sprinkle the cornflour over the egg white mixture and, using a clean spatula, gently fold in the cornflour – no more than six folds.

7. Spoon the mix on to the prepared tray and mould it into the shape you want. Kabboord prefers to leave it pretty heaped. Don't mess with the mix too much, though, as you want to get it in the oven quick smart. The other option is to use a preheated and lined tray. Speed is the key here.

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8. Place the tray in the middle of the oven and immediately turn the temperature down to 120 degrees Celsius. Don't use the fan.

9. Cook for 80-90 minutes but don't let the pavlova colour. You may see a little sugar syrup seep out of the bottom but the crust should be firm. Inside, it will be soft and marshmallowy.

10. Cool to room temperature and decorate using quark, Meredith goat's curd or mascarpone (cream is boring!) and your favourite toppings, such as chopped summer fruit or passionfruit custard.

Note on storage: Kabboord says it's best to make the pavlova a day before you serve it but it will keep for up to two days in an airtight container at room temperature. Don't refrigerate it.

PASSIONFRUIT CUSTARD

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Ingredients

450ml milk

145g sugar

Zest of 2 lemons (use a Microplane)

60g cornflour, sifted

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4 egg yolks

60g unsalted butter, cut into small dice

4 passionfruit

juice of 2 lemons

Method

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Simmer the milk, sugar, lemon zest over medium heat.

Mix the cornflour with a little water and pour this in to thicken the mix. Whisk in the yolks and simmer. Do not let it boil.

Take the custard, which should be nice and thick, off the stove. Add the butter and whisk. This helps cool the custard.

Add the passionfruit pulp and lemon juice. When cool, spoon over the pavlova or serve alongside.

Details: Merricote, 81 High Street, Northcote, Melbourne (03) 9939 4762

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Roslyn GrundyRoslyn Grundy is Good Food's deputy editor and the former editor of The Age Good Food Guide.

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