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In with a whole new Noel

Ring the changes with a slight variation on the traditional Christmas lunch.

Jill Dupleix
Jill Dupleix

Roast poussin with Christmas stuffing.
Roast poussin with Christmas stuffing.Marina Oliphant

NOW is not the time to abandon the family's festive favourites. You don't want the kids going on strike on Christmas Day just because you didn't make stuffing, or have nanna march out because there's no poultry. But there's always room for a glamorous little twist to keep things interesting, and to make festive entertaining more relaxed and enjoyable. That way, all your Christmases won't merge into one, but be distinct, personal and memorable.

Start, for instance, with seared scallops, popped back onto their shells on a vibrant red-pepper puree. Roast poussin is a chic way of getting the turkey-and-stuffing hit without the oven blasting out heat for hours and hours. These young birds will have more flavour when cooked whole and on the bone, but you can always go for the luxury option of tunnel-boning them, leaving only the wings and drumsticks in place (a poultry specialist or good butcher will do this for you if you ask nicely and give them time by booking ahead), then stuffing, re-shaping and securing the ends before roasting.

Finish with a cool, creamy eggnog panna cotta loaded with brandy, served with shortbread and a few of nanna's mince pies — the perfect combo of old and new.
Next week: A cocktail party with the Strodes.

Roast poussin with Christmas stuffing

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With a whole poussin (also known as a spatchcock) stuffed with a very Christmassy mixture of sausage, apple, dried fruits and nuts, you can give everyone a feast to remember. Serve with a bowl of cranberry sauce or redcurrant jelly.

INGREDIENTS

4 tbsp olive oil
1 red onion, finely diced
2 good pork sausages
75g sourdough bread, crustless
½ a green apple, peeled, cored and diced
50g dried cranberries
50g currants
50g mixed, dried peel
50g walnuts, roughly chopped
2 tbsp finely chopped parsley
1 tsp thyme leaves
1 egg, beaten
500g butternut or pumpkin, peeled
500g red-skinned potatoes, peeled
4 bay leaves
4 rosemary sprigs
4 fresh poussin, about 500g each
Sea salt and ground black pepper
2 tbsp butter
200g frozen peas

METHOD

Heat the oven to 200C. Heat 2 tbsp of oil in a fry pan and gently cook the onion until soft. Remove the onions and leave to cool. Skin the sausages and pinch the meat into the pan. Add the apple and fry until the sausages are cooked. Leave to cool.

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Whiz the bread into crumbs in a food processor. Combine the breadcrumbs with the onions, sausage, apple, cranberries, currants, mixed peel, walnuts, parsley, thyme and egg, mixing lightly, but well, manually.

Cut the pumpkin and potato into 2-centimetre cubes and toss with 2 tbsp olive oil, bay leaves and rosemary. Wipe the poussin clean and push the stuffing into the cavity. Tie the two legs together with string, season well, and daub with 1 tbsp butter.

Bake the vegetables and the poussin for 50 to 60 minutes or until the chicken is golden, whooshing the vegetables around occasionally to brown evenly. Pour a kettleful of boiling water over the peas, leave for two minutes, then drain and toss with remaining 1 tbsp butter. Remove the string from the poussin and serve surrounded by the vegetables. Scatter with peas and serve.
Serves 4

Seared scallops with red-pepper puree

Make the red-pepper puree in advance so that all you have to do on Christmas Day is sear the scallops when you are ready to sit down.

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INGREDIENTS

2 red capsicums
1 tomato, diced
4 tbsp olive oil
½ tsp paprika
1 tsp ground cumin
Pinch of cayenne pepper
Sea salt and pepper
8 or 12 sea scallops
(with shells)
8 coriander leaves

METHOD

Finely chop the peppers, discarding seeds and inner core. Heat 1 tbsp of oil in a fry pan and gently cook the peppers and tomato, without browning, for 10 minutes or until softened.

Whiz in a blender with 2 tbsp olive oil, paprika, cumin, cayenne, sea salt and pepper until smooth. Transfer to a fine sieve set over a bowl and allow any excess liquid to drain out.

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Clean and trim the scallops, if necessary, and wipe the shells. Brush the scallops with remaining olive oil and cook in a hot pan for 2 minutes on one side, until golden. Turn once and briefly cook the other side, then remove and season well.

Spoon the red-pepper puree on to scallop shells, top with a seared scallop, coriander leaf and black pepper and serve.
Serves 4

Eggnog panna cotta with frosted berries

All the flavours of eggnog (nutmeg, cinnamon, cream and lots of brandy) are set into a light, creamy panna cotta for a Christmas pudding with a twist.

INGREDIENTS

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250ml cream (thickened)
250ml full-cream milk
1/2 tbsp ground cinnamon
Quarter tbsp grated nutmeg
125g castor sugar
2 1/2 gelatine leaves (titanium strength)
2 eggs, lightly beaten
100ml brandy or cognac (your best)
1/2 tbsp vanilla extract

METHOD

Gently heat the cream, milk, cinnamon, nutmeg and sugar in a saucepan, stirring until the sugar has dissolved.

Soak the gelatine leaves in cold water for five minutes. Drain the leaves, squeezing lightly to get rid of excess water. Whisk the gelatine into the cream until dissolved and allow to cool for one hour.

Whisk the eggs, brandy and vanilla extract into the cooled cream, and strain into martini glasses or small, rinsed ramekin moulds. Refrigerate overnight. If using ramekins, run a knife around the edges and invert on to serving plates. Serve topped with frosted berries.

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Serves 6

Tip: To frost berries

You will need: 1 punnet of raspberries, 1 egg white, 100g castor sugar. Beat the egg white lightly to break it up. Coat the berries in the egg white (a few at a time) then rub off any gloopy excess. Roll the berries in a fine layer of caster sugar and place on baking paper to dry while frosting the remaining berries.

Source: This story originally ran in Epicure and Good Living on December 7, 2010.

Jill DupleixJill Dupleix is a Good Food contributor and reviewer who writes the Know-How column.

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