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Kitchen Spy: Anthony DeGeorge

'An accordion' is how chef Anthony DeGeorge describes Cirque du Soleil's mobile kitchen. He takes Nina Rousseau on a tour.

Nina Rousseau

"An accordion" is how chef Anthony DeGeorge describes Cirque du Soleil's kitchen, a mobile operation that folds out into a fully operational coolroom, kitchen and dining room. DeGeorge hails from Portland, Oregon - his dad is Italian, his mum American. He speaks fluent Italian, a smattering of French and is learning Russian from his staff. Every day, DeGeorge and crew feed about 200 people, from ''super bendy contortionists'' who eat steamed rice and vegetables to site crew who scoff steak and potatoes. After March 31, the kitchen folds back into its shipping containers at Melbourne's Docklands and the travelling show moves on.

Recipe stalwart

Risotto. Coming from an Italian background, I've probably cooked more arborio rice than anything else in my life. My favourite kind of risotto is sweet pea risotto with octopus, hands down. And liquorice - it works surprisingly well with octopus.

My tool kit

Local employees who know the area - the purveyors, the local products - are the most essential tool for us. We travel, so often it takes time to do this kind of research, so strong local crew is invaluable. The coffee machine (Gaggia) is also key and the high-powered pressurised steamer - that's the workhorse of our kitchen.

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Most unforgettable meal

There's a town called Verduno in Piedmont, Italy, and I went to a friend's house for lunch. His father took me down to his cellar and he had this entire wall of dust-covered preserved fruits and vegetables. There were the most amazing pickled peppers. To him, it was such a simple, everyday thing, but to me it was mind-blowing.

I'm drinking

I'm a wine drinker. I lived in Italy for 2½ years and had a 2004 Gaja Barbaresco that absolutely blew me away. That was the best thing I drank while I was there. On a night out with the crew it's Hendrick's Gin with soda and cucumber.

Last meal you cooked

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Shannon [the former customer service experience manager for Cirque du Soleil] had been with the company for nine years and she wanted a big taco bar for her last day, so that's what we did - make-your-own tacos and burritos. We form tight relationships with the people we feed every day, so the menu and decor grow accordingly. Cap'n Crunch is today's mascot.

Inspiration

My favourite cookbook of all time is Cooking by Hand by Paul Bertolli, an American chef who worked with Alice Waters and is into organics and eating local. I also read The Art of Eating (artofeating.com) by Edward Behr.

Staples

My pantry Tapioca for gluten-free desserts; ground espresso (try putting some in your tomato sauce); rocket; Israeli dates; bay leaves; and sriracha chilli sauce is great on everything - everything.

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My fridge We've always got local mushrooms on hand.

My freezer Frozen puff pastry is a staple - we can always drum up a dish for 200 people in a hurry.

Favourite

I've had the same immersion (stick) blender for 12 years; it was given to me by a chef I used to work for, and it's still kicking somehow. It's a great kitchen tool. That would be the first thing I'd take in a fire.

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