Life of brine

The smell of salt cod cooking reminds me of Easter, when we would eat bacalao a la romana, a juicy fillet of desalinated (soaked) salt cod that is floured then dipped in egg batter and deep-fried until golden. It is sprinkled with a little salt and eaten with a simple salad.

Salt cod is a staple of Mediterranean cookery and, as a preserved food, was integral to many a great maritime discovery. It was the main source of onboard protein. Salt cod is found in most delis and needs to be soaked for a couple of days before it is used.

Start by brushing off any visible salt crystals. Place the entire fillet or fillets in a large stainless-steel bowl, skin side up, and cover with cold water, allowing the salt to flow down through the flesh. Keep in the fridge for 48 hours, changing the water every 12 hours.

The brandade, recipe above, is fantastic smeared across a piece of grilled sourdough.

BRANDADE

500g salt cod, desalinated

1 litre milk

2 litres water

5 peppercorns

1 bay leaf

100ml light olive oil

1 clove garlic, finely chopped

Place cod in a large pot with the milk, water, peppercorns and bay leaf. Bring to the boil, then lower the heat and simmer for 10 minutes. The cod should be soft to touch. Turn off the heat and cool the fish in the liquid. Strain through a sieve, reserving 100 millilitres of liquid. Remove and discard the bone and skin. Flake the fish into the bowl of an electric mixer and, using a paddle attachment, slowly beat the fish while gradually adding the oil, garlic and poaching liquid. Keep beating until well mixed.

Serves 6

SALT COD IN A RICH PAPRIKA AND ONION SAUCE

600ml olive oil

500g red onions, chopped

Large pinch salt

1 ½ red capsicums, seeded and finely sliced

1 ½ tbsp Spanish sweet paprika

½ red chilli, finely sliced

2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

600g salt cod, desalinated

1 small handful flat leaf parsley, roughly chopped

To make the sauce, heat 100 millilitres of the oil in a heavy-based pot over a low heat. Add the onions and salt. Cook, covered, for 15 minutes until soft and translucent, stirring occasionally. Add the capsicum, paprika and chilli and cook, covered, for 30 minutes. Add 170 millilitres of water and cook, covered for 10 minutes or until pulpy.

Preheat oven to 100 C. Allow the sauce to cool for 10 minutes, then pour into a food processor and blend for 30 seconds or until smooth. Pass through a coarse sieve, pushing the pulp with the back of a spoon until most of the vegetables have passed through. Discard any pieces left in the sieve. Season to taste.

Heat the remaining oil in an oven-proof dish over high heat. Cook garlic for about 20 seconds or until golden brown, then remove from the oil. Remove oil from heat and allow to cool for 10 minutes. Cut the cod into four portions. Do not remove the skin and bones. Carefully place the cod in the oil, skin side up. Cover with foil and bake for 15 minutes.

Remove the cod and drain on paper towel for 1 minute. Arrange the cod in a small baking dish and pour over enough sauce to almost cover the cod. Bring to a simmer on the stovetop over low heat. Cook for 5-10 minutes, gently basting the fish and allowing the sauce to reduce. Garnish with parsley and serve hot.

Serves 4